MKI MR2
Installing Tokico struts
With the car starting to get sorted out I have turned my attention to the suspension.
Because I would like to be able to auto-x the car in stock a stock category all I did was changed the strut inserts. I opted for Tokico Illuminas which are relatively inexpensive and adjustable.
I found after all of that work that there are still some things to address with the suspension before it drives like new again.
At the front end I need new tie rods. I plan on replacing the rack bushing while I am in there. At the back end I have a bent strut rod, that should not be too much trouble. The plan will be to put all new rubber in while the bits are apart.
When that is complete a good alignment should have me driving like a new MKI SC.
Here are some details of the install operation.
Click here for additional notes
I found that there are two ways to take the struts apart. You can either unscrew the strut while it is in the car and let the suspension hold everything together (but then you must wrestle them out of the car), or you can take them out and rely on a spring compressor to hold tension while you loosen the appropriate nuts.
click the pic for a larger image
Either way you will need the spring compressor to do it right. You should also make sure to get yourself a set of Macpherson compressors and not a coil spring compressor. The designs are different and the coil spring comprssor does not work very well at all on the outside of the spring.
You can borrow compressors at most auto-parts stores or buy them for not too much money.
If you loosen the nuts holding the strut top to the body the bushing/bearing will then be free at the top.
Next you can loosen the two large bolts holding the strut body to the suspension (spindle/knuckle etc).
If you have an anti-sway bar on your car (the SC should have one at both ends) you can disconnect the link from the bar quite easily.
At this point you must decide what to do about the brake lines. If you are doing brake work you can disconnect the calipers from the lines and remove the clips allowing you to feed the brake lines back through the strut tab.
If you are not doing brake work you can do what I did. Use either a dremel, hack saw or other grinder/cutter to slot VERY CAREFULLY the tab on the strut body (only cut just enough to remove the brake line). Make sure that you have removed the small retainer clip first and that you do not damage the brake lines. If I had purcahased replacement before I began, then I would have installed new brake lines at this point, but I needed to drive the car the next day so I could not wait to go buy them.
On the plus side my struts now have slotted tabs, the clips still work and I can change suspension stuff without bleeding the brakes or even opening that system.
If you have opted for the removing the spring out of the car method, you now need to install your spring compressors. It is best to use two, one on either side. All you need to do is to unload the collars, not crush the spring. Once you have removed the pressure from the collar, use an impact to spin off the bolt. I find that if you try to use a wrench you just turn the piston.
Removing the isnert requires two large wrenches (pipe wrenches worked for me) or a large wrench and a large vise. Be careful where you grip the strut housing, if you deform it, it will be ruined. When removing the old strut you can be a bit more zealous, but when installing your new insert you muct NOT damage the piston or the struts will be worthless.
When installing the new inserts I used a small bit of non detergent motor oil in the insert. The idea is that it transfers the heat of the insert to the housing, it also will keep it from coroding in place. I replaced my strut bearings in front when I did this. You can look into adustable camber plates at this point but they are not allowed in stock SCCA so I went with Toyota units.
I also installed new dustboots/bump stops. They cost me $12 each at an autoparts store, but will make sure that my struts are protected and will also insure that my warranty remains valid on my struts.
Installation is reverse of removal. You load the springs with the compressor so you can tighten the bolts back down, the struts go back into the car (make sure evrything lines up before tightening things up too much). At thgis point you will probably wnat to do a rough alignmnet your self or take the car in for a proper straightening.
