944-Spec Car Set-Up


A lot of people have asked me "What do I need to do to have a competitive 944-spec car?" Well the answer is quite simple. A good driver is most important thing.

Horsepower and suspension are not as important as driver skill. This is as it should be in a driverís series. Just to prove this and allow new drivers to get their carís up to speed quickly I will describe in detail my car set-up. I have been driving and developing this car since September 2000 and racing it since April 2002 before this series began. Here is what I have learned.

Engine

Basically stockÖ Do these things

1) Rod bearings: Replace to ensure engine longevity. These are the only weak points.

2) Dump the cat: Gets a little hp, but also eliminated the tendency to crack welds

3) Intake: 100% stock including airbox and paper filter - these all work just fine Spend money elsewhere

4) Exhaust: Headers stock tubular units are very nice, light and effective. The cast ones are heavy, but that is probably the biggest drawback. If you can get tubulars, put them in. Maybe they are work 1-2 hp.

5) Muffler: Stock works fine, don't spend any money here as it is not worth it.

6) Chip: any basic performance chip helps some (2-5hp), but not much more.

7) Cooling: New stock radiator and direct wired fans. Not for hp but for better cooling and longevity

8) Dump A/C system so get A/C delete bracket to relocate the alternator. Less weight, lower CG and less drag on motor.

9) Stock flywheel and 944 spring centered clutch.

After learning about rod bearing the hard way (engine blow-up) My father and I rebuilt another engine and installed it. We did nothing beyond a stock rebuild with and 84 block. Nothing special at all. In fact we did not even bump compression. We cleaned the head and had it machined flat for minimal material removal. The car made 131 rwhp on Chris's dyne before the chip.

Chassis

1) Simple... Dump everything that does not make the car go. Look in the rules for what you must keep. Be creative, but hint. Removing undercoating and glues are not worth it.

2) Don't repaint... Why spend the money there? That can go to safety gear or more seat time

Suspension

Many options so here is what works for me. (You may want it different based on your driving style)

Front

Koni Yellow Sport Shocks, Paragon Products coilover kit with 350lbs springs & camber plates, Weltmeister 28 mm adjustable sway bar, Poly bushings, cambermeister strut tower brace. Camber -3.5, Toe 0

Rear

Koni Yellow Sport Shocks, 30 mm solid torsion bars, 22 mm weltmeister sway bar, poly bushings Camber -2.5 A little toe in.

Ride height is as low as you think you can go with the car basically level.

I had Chris Cervelli of Technodyne corner balance and align.

Brakes

Stock rotors and calipers work fine. I used drilled in front, but not sure that it really helps. I run ss braided lines and super blue fuild. I bleed brakes before each track day and have custom 3" brake ducts made from parts from home depot. I just switched to Hawk Blue pads I love them.