Blanca & Ian's Travels

Hungary

Trip Report - 2007

 

Aggie-sheg-a-dra
(Or something thing that . . .)


Budapest, Eger,
Győr, Sopron, Vienna (Austria)
with lunch in Warsaw


Vienna


Accommodations


The Hilton at night


The view west from our window

Hilton Vienna Plaza - Schottenring 11, Vienna, Austria A - 1010  
Free with Hilton Honors Points

www.hilton.com

Accommodations:  A suite.  On the business floor - the 7th. Very nice king-bedded room.  Very nice 'American-style' room.  Comfortable couch & chairs.  Bathrobes & slippers.  Opulent bathroom with bidet, shower stall & bathtub.  The usual TV x 2 with channels from throughout Europe - (including my trusty BBC Europe), Safe,  mini-bar, ice from room service, in-house restaurant, concierge.  Very nice.  The staff were excellent.

Located on the 'ring' - tram stop Bõrse - just across the road.  Subway link at the side of the hotel.  Parking 27€ per day - ouch.  But the check-in staff told us to park on the road until Monday morning for free & we did.  And they also told us the ticket was only 21€ but I moved the car in at 8 AM & we paid 36€ for parking until Tuesday morning.

The Negatives:   I can't really think of any.  Okay, here's one - not many restaurants nearby.


Day by Day

Day 10 Saturday June 23

This part of our trip was a vacation away from family visits.  When I was planning the trip, I figured after 3 days of intensive family time we would need a break.  Good plan , Ian!  

We bid our cousins a fond & tearful farewell & promised to return.  A bit later than planned of course, but we were able to get a 3 PM departure which would get us there in daylight - a big pre-requisite for me.  I hate arriving in a strange city in the dark & trying to find places.  So, we set out toward the M1 for the short drive from Gyõr to Vienna.  It was a no-incident easy drive.  Ditto crossing the border.  Approaching Vienna - now on the A4 - we realized that our maps sucked.  I had Michelin point to point directions but then I remembered that the hotel address confused them so . . .

The highway turned into city roads (#227) & we paralleled the Donaukanal.  The streets are marked as in Hungary with corner plaques on corners, so of course you can't see them.  All was well however, until we crossed the canal & got into the maze of streets that make up the inner ring.  Everything was one way - the wrong way & so we looped around but none of the streets were on our silly map.  After 15 minutes of looping & cursing we got onto 227 heading south & found a gas station to ask.  Well, he gave us directions to the Hilton & after more frustration we gratefully pulled into the hotel's turn-around.  No doorman was in sight, so we helped ourselves to the luggage cart & went in to check-in.  We waited for 10 minutes while the 2 counter girls diddled - one was on the phone & one was looking up an address - for 10 minutes!  I know, impatient North Americans.  The icing was when a women walked up to the HH area & a new staff member literally ran out to service her.  I blew a gasket at that point.  But of course, as these things always work out, after venting my rage, it turned out that we were at the wrong Hilton - this one was on the south end of the ring & our's was on the north.  When we asked how to get to the other Hilton, he told us it was difficult & that we should take a taxi.  Hmmm.  Kind of hard to fit our rental into a taxi.  He gave us mediocre directions, we repacked the car & off we went again.

After 15 more minutes of looping, we finally found the Schottenring & our Hilton.  Schottenring is one way heading out & you have to access the north side buildings via a parallel access road.  I don't know if Hilton #1 phoned Hilton #2 to warn them about the rabid customers on the way, but they could not have been nicer.  And the room . . . was a suite.  Ahhh.  With a hallway!  We collapsed & poured a drink.  A little later we wandered down to the hotel's restaurant for a quick bite.  Yikes.  The prices are a wee bit higher than in Hungary.  Almost double.  Even more than the inflated Buda prices.  But we didn't care.  We ate.  We collapsed.

Day 11 Sunday June 24

I was up early the next morning & realized I had done almost no research on Vienna other than a few restaurant suggestions.  I dove into my Rough Guide & came up with a plan.  We had decided to relax in Vienna, rather than run around like demons & try to see all of the sites.  We were on holiday not a marathon & this museum-rich & palace-rich city would take a week to see properly.  It was also still 30C + every day which tended to slow things down.  So I focused & picked a couple of must-see highlights to form a very lackadaisical itinerary to keep us amused for the 2 days we had.  Since Vienna is a popular destination, I won't post as many pictures as I have for the Hungarian portion.  Many of you have been there/done that so I will just go with our highlights.

After a pleasant breakfast on the 10th floor rooftop Executive Lounge, we bought Vienna Passes from the concierge for 16.90€.  Then it was to the tram for the short hop to the Kunsthistorisches Museum.

Just a quick note of praise for Vienna's fabulous transportation system.  We traveled around town on trams & used the subway for a trip further out.  It works tremendously well & is very easy.  And on time.  The drivers even wait at stops so they will arrive at the next one on time.  This was a bit painful at times since it was still swelteringly hot & no air moves unless the tram moves, but it was efficient.

Now the Kunsthistorisches.  Certainly one of the world's best museums.  The building is stunning in its own right - especially the vast interior staircase & the 2 level dome.  And the collection?  Wow.  Hats off to the curators because I have never see art so well displayed.  The Egyptian art was superb & the Roman bust collection is beautifully displayed.  One of the best I have seen.  Bravo!  So if you're in Vienna & you want to see something truly outstanding, head to this museum.  The rest of their collection was also great - I mean, who else has 3 Rembrandt self-portraits hung side by side?



1st floor hallway
Kunsthistorisches Museum


Kunsthistorisches Museum

Bust of Julius Caesar

Canova's Theseus and the Minotaur
Kunsthistorisches Museum

Greek helmets
Kunsthistorisches Museum

After several hours, we were arted out & we headed for a walk through the Hofburg complex.  On the way, we stopped for a quick bite in a restaurant in the park in front of the Hofburg Palace.  Certainly not a hotbed of culinary delight, I had soup & B had a sausage (really just a hotdog).  12.90€ with a cold drink each.

After that we just wandered.  Through the various courtyards of the Hofburg & around the exterior.  We toyed with seeing the Crown Jewels at the Schatzkammer but lack of energy & the 10€ admission dissuaded us.  My comment was that for that price, we should get to pick a jewel to take home.  We meandered over to Graben & down to Stephenplatz.  After watching some break-dancers do a routine, we went into the Stephansdom.  The spire is scaffolded (of course).  Nice church.  We listened to a bell & choir routine from a group from Wisconsin that was performing & took pictures of this impressive structure.  They kicked all of the tourists out & we headed through more of the maze of the Innere Stadt before hopping on a tram back to the hotel.  For dinner that night, we went to Plachutta.  B had one of the boiled beef things & I had schnitzel.  Very good.  93.10€ including a 39€ bottle of Prieler Burgenland red wine (the wine I'd rate as just OK btw).

Our 1st full day in Vienna was rated a success.


The Hofburg - Neue Burg

Michaelertor

TheHofburg - Prunksaal

Stephansdom

A building at the Am Hof

Stephansdom

Day 12 Monday June 25

Opera day.  When I started planning this trip, the one thing I wanted to do was see a Mozart Opera in Vienna at the Staatsoper.  And not just any Mozart opera, I wanted to see Die Zauberflöte (The Magic Flute).  It was only playing 2 or 3 times in the entire season & June 25 was one of them.  I booked our seats on-line last October at www.cultuall.com.  I then booked our whole Hungary tour around that date.  And tonight was the night.  The opera started at 7 PM, but we had the day to fill.

Let's go to Schönbrunn like everybody else!  So, wishing to see some nice palace interiors, we hopped on the subway & made our way out.  The heat was already building as we arrived & walked to the ticket office.  After a 10 minute cranky lineup, we bought the Classic Pass for 16.90€ & commiserated with the ticket seller about all the people who wait until they're at the wicket before they start a family discussion about which option to get.  In hindsight, the Lite one would have worked.  Our allotted time wasn't for 40 minutes, so we wandered back to see the fountain & to take some pictures.  In 4 of my pictures, the same bald, fat guy is front & center.  I couldn't get rid of him, but Photo Shop will.  Haha.

The free English Audio Guides made the tour interesting & painless & just long enough.  One German group was a bit of a problem but we sped ahead so we could actually see the rooms & not just the back of a crowd.  Very nice interiors - especially the Oriental-themed rooms & it was good to see there was still furniture to make it more alive.  That's a problem for other palaces we have seen - Versailles, Chambord, Hampton Court etc all beg for some furniture.  Well worth the visit.

By the time we had done the interior, the heat made us decide to skip the maze & walking back to the Gloriette.  Just looking back there made me reach for a cold water bottle.  Instead we trudged to the subway & zipped to Karlspatz & then we walked over towards the Stadpark.  A stop at a sandwich shop gave us lunch which we took into the park to eat under a nice shady tree.  Refreshing.  After a meander around the park we went back to the hotel to rest before our big night.


Neptunbrumen & Gloriette
Schönbrunn
(He's Gone!)

Karlskirche

Rear view of Schönbrunn

Now to the opera.  Dressed in our 'going out' duds, we trammed to the Staatsoper - only a little out of place amongst the trammies.  Ticket pickup was easy & we milled around looking important like everybody else.  Most were dressed up.  Suit & tie for many - I saw one man in an Austrian dress jacket - just like Captain von Trapp.  We made our way to our seats.  4th row Orchestra.  Center aisle seats.  Perfect.  For 314€ (for 2) they should be good.  And they were.  The building & interior are wonderful of course & it was packed for this sold-out performance.

Stunning is the word that comes to mind.  I know the music very well but I've never seen it performed.  We were close enough to see & hear everything.  Every expression.  Every word.  I was riveted.  The Queen of the Night arias were breath-taking.  All of the vocalists were superb.  And the orchestra was wonderful.  The set?  Hmmm.  Costumes?  Certainly not period.  But it didn't matter.  The music was there.  It's nice to fulfill a fantasy one in a while.  Such a rare treat in life.

After we spilled out onto the wet street, it became apparent that the weather had finally broken & it had rained during the 2nd Act.  Relief!  We had had hot scorching weather every day.  Blue sky & sun is never a problem, but the heat was.  Thankfully, middle Europe doesn't seem plagued with high humidity, but it had still been unbearable at times.

We went down the street searching for food.  An Italian place was open & numerous opera goers indulged.  The name & price have disappeared - but it was not memorable anyway.  Somewhere around 50€ for pasta carbonara & a split parmesan/arugula salad including a glass of wine each.

Another day done.  We trammed back & collapsed.


Staatsoper

Boxes
Staatsoper

View from my seat - not bad eh?
Staatsoper

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