Blanca & Ian's Travels

Spain

Trip Report - 2000

 

Iberian Adventure 

Catalonia


This trip was a mix of business & pleasure.  I work for a distributor of several French consumer electronics products & we were tour guides for a total of 21 customers & wives for a week of traveling around France.  At the end of this week, we gladly shipped them home & flew to Barcelona to decompress for 5 nights.

Mid-April
1 night    Barcelona - Hotel Adagio
1 night    Tarragona - Hotel Imperial Tarraco
3 nights   Peratallada - Hotel Riera


 

 

 

Barcelona

After a week in France - Paris, Lyon, Versailles etc - Barcelona was a culture shock.  Even though we were staying right in the Barri Gòtic, Barcelona was a modern city.  Perhaps we were just jaded or winded from our whirlwind in France, but we did not warm up to Barcelona.  It was busy & no one appeared the slightest bit friendly.  The couple of restaurants we went to - lunch & dinner - were good but the service in both was the minimum required.

We walked the Barri Gòtic & did the usual tourist gawking.  The Barri Gòtic was nice but a typical tourist wallet vacuum - albeit one with charm but after Paris . . .

Elsewhere in town, we walked the Ramblas & wondered what other travelers enjoyed about this busy shopping/restaurant zoo.  We took the subway - easy to use - to see Gaudi's Sagrada Familia.  I remember we walked up the stairs from underground & BANG . . . there it was . . . in all its unfinished glory.  We took the tour, including the elevator up, which gives a great view of the city.

I guess you can sense that Barcelona was not a place we enjoyed.  Perhaps we didn't give it a fair shake but one night was enough for us.


Hotel Adagio 99€          http://www.adagiohotel.com/en/index.htm 

Easy to find on a main street of the Barri Gòtic.  This hotel is a bit of a dump when we were there.  It might have helped to quell our enthusiasm for Barcelona.

Accommodations:  Very basic room with no frills what-so-ever.  OK, if you don't plan to spend ANY time in your room.  Modest breakfast included.

The Negatives:   As above - a dump but not a bad one.  (I have read that they have reno'd the hotel since we stayed there)

The Positives:   Very well-located.  Cheap & reasonably clean.


Hotel Adagio

 


Barcelona Images


Gaudi's Sagrada Familia


Feeding pigeons near Gaudi's church


Royal Palace (Palau Reial)

 


 

Tarragona

After our crash & burn in Barcelona, we were eager to get out of town.  We taxied to the airport, where our rental car awaited.  A manual diesel Ford Mondeo.  I did it this way so I wouldn't have to drive in Barcelona.  From the airport, we headed south on E15 & it was an easy - and beautiful drive.  After exiting the highway, I got turned around a bit in Tarragona & finally came up to the hotel from the beach after a brief tour of the harbor area.  At the lights of the round-a-bout in front of the hotel - round-a-bouts were still scary for me - I stalled the manual car on the hill.  Terror & furious swear words ensued, so once I solved it, we parked the car with relief.  We made it.  Our first drive in Spain.

We wandered over to La Rambla Nova - Tarragona's shopping/restaurant street for lunch.  We ate in a nice restaurant on the Rambla right near the end - north side.

After lunch - now mid-afternoon - we decided that it would be nice to visit the Roman amphitheater that was below our hotel.  Nope.  Closed for the rest of the day - Sunday - & closed Monday too!  Ditto the museum next door.  This was not good.  I picked Tarragona to see the ruins & relax.  I was not a happy camper.

So I sulked for a while & then we took a walk thru the old medieval town behind the museum.  All shuttered but nice looking.

For dinner, nothing seemed open except our lunch restaurant - Sunday night of course.  A block south of La Rambla Nova we found a a semi-chain type of place with nice pictures of paella on a placard out front.  We went in, pointed at our choice from the menu pictures & had a very nice meal.  Interesting, they had a dumb waiter to bring the meals up from the basement kitchen.

This was our first experience with the mysteries of openings & closing times in Spain.  On our next trip to Spain, we were ready for it, but this time, it left us very frustrated.

 


The Imperial Tarraco from the beach
with the amphitheater in between


Hotel Imperial Tarraco 120€          http://www.hotelhusaimperialtarraco.com/

Well located, right on a bluff overlooking the Med.  Also immediately below is the ruins of the Roman amphitheater.  Be sure to get a room on a higher floor - we were on the 9th - on the sea side.  The staff spoke little-to-no English.

Accommodations:  We had a large room with a balcony that faced the Mediterranean with table & chairs.  Incredible view!  Reasonably modern  & nice.

Restaurant:  We only had coffee in the hotel's restaurant.

The Negatives:   None.

The Positives:   The view!

 


 

Tarragona Images


The amphitheater at Tarragona from our balcony in the Tarraco


Amphitheater up close


Beach in front of the amphitheater

 


 



Penedès wine region

 

 

 


Hotel Riera - Peratallada
Our room was the stone structure
on the right

Baix Empordà

So far our little decompression holiday was not going well.  We didn't like Barcelona & Tarragona was closed - seemingly all of it - especially since it was off-season.  So, the next day we jumped in the car & headed north.  We cut off on N340 & took this 2 lane road inland to bypass Sitges & Barcelona.  On this route we passed thru part of the Penedès wine region - home of the large quality producer Torres & it was turning into a really nice drive.  At this point, I think I finally started to unwind a bit after my tour guide stress.  

We picked up the E15 & headed north - exiting at Girona.  An easy forty minute drive east on C66 got us to our destination -  a B & B near La Brisbal de Empordà.  It was a room in a farmhouse & we started to get cold feet as we checked in.  They had 4 rental rooms with a common area in the middle.  When we asked about dinner, the hostess said her mother usually made spaghetti or something for dinner when she got home.  But she was going to be late.  Hmmm.

We drove over to nearby Peratallada & checked into a hotel & went back & checked out of the B & B.  More privacy & a real restaurant called to us.  It was a good choice.


La Riera - Peratallada 75€          http://www.peratallada.info/catala/riera.htm

Just on the edge of Peratallada, this hotel with restaurant was run by a couple.  He spoke Spanish, Catalan & French & she spoke Catalan & Spanish.  We communicated in French - I know enough to survive.

Accommodations:  We had a large private room.  It was off-season & quite cold at night.  The heater only turned on for a couple of hours every evening - to save energy $s I guess.  It didn't matter.  It was much better than the B & B.

Restaurant:  They have one - see below.

The Negatives:   Chilly at night & everything in town was closed - but it was April . . .

The Positives:   A big room & very nice hosts.

 


Peratallada


Peratallada



Peratallada - see the ruts 
in the stone!

 


 



Painted houses on the Ter  in Girona


Costa Brava


Near Begur

Exploring Baix Empordà

This area proved to be a really nice area to explore.  The coast, of course, is the Costa Brava.  But don't let that keep you away.  Away from the coast, there are some great places to see - Iberian, Greek & Roman ruins.  One of the gems we discovered is Peratallada, a medieval stone village.  It was built out of the stone that they carved out of the moat that surrounds the village.  Deep rutted  stone streets with houses, restaurants & hotels.  Of course, since it was off-season, everything was closed except for La Riera & another fancy hotel.  The 1st night we just explored the village & ate in our hotel's restaurant.  It was all cooked by the husband & wife hoteliers & was very good with a nice wine from his cellar.  The restaurant used to be a stable some centuries ago.   Peratallada is a great find & was quite spooky - but spooky good - at night.

The next morning, it was time to explore.  We drove to Girona for lunch & to see this large town.  We ate in a modern restaurant in the old Jewish quarter.  There is  parking in huge lots across the river Ter - the one with all of the painted houses - photo op here.  I guess this is a tour bus stop in the summer months.  In the afternoon, we buzzed over to the coast & briefly walked on the cold, windy beach.  Also drove thru some of the coast towns & did some shopping in nearby La Brisbal de Empordà which turned out to be a pottery town with numerous pottery stores selling their wares on the main street/highway that runs thru.  For dinner, we went with a suggestion from our host & ate in a restaurant in a tiny village -  Palau-sator - that was close to Peratallada.  Very nice busy place.

Our last full day, we decided to go further a field & we motored up to Empúries.  This is a major archeological site with Greek & Roman ruins on a hill overlooking the Med.  We both loved wandering this area for several hours.  Everywhere you walked, there were shards of potter & roof tiles underfoot.  Amazing.

Then it was over to Figueres for the Dali Museum.  We are not really fans, but we were in the area & it was an interesting stop.  Bear in mind that most of his iconic pieces are sprinkled around the world in museums or private collections.  We ate lunch in a bar around the corner decked out with wooden beams etc.  Good but not memorable.

Our last stop of the day was the ruins of an Iberian settlement just north of Ullastret.  On a hill with a great view of the plain with the coast mountains in the distance - very serene.  After 1/2 hour, it was closing so we made our way back to Peratallada & dinner at our hotel.  This night, the owner dragged me into his wine cellar & I chose a 20 year old Bodegas Lan Rioja as a splurge.  The food was good & the wine was great.

Early the next morning we bee - lined to the Barcelona airport - 3 hrs or so - for the long flight home.

 


 

Baix Empordà Images


Ullastret


Savador Dali Museum in Figueres


Taken from the Iberian ruins 
near Ullastret

 


Roman ruins at Empúries


Greek ruins at Empúries


Roman ruins at Empúries




Conclusion

This was our 1st taste of Spain & we ended up loving it.  Barcelona - no.  Tarragona - somewhat.  But the Baix Empordà area - a resounding YES!

 


 

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