The Maintenance Files

Front Brake Caliper Rebuild

(Summer 2006)

(Update Spring 2008)

Brake calipers.  When I got the car, I had to immediately install rotors & discs.  I did it quickly - it's not a hard job except for the dust cap removal which the 2 hammer method solved.  Just for fun, try a search on dust cap removal & you find some incredibly inventive ways to accomplish this task.  For some reason, guys will go to great lengths to avoid the very simple & effective 2 hammer method.  If you don't know, put the claw of 1 hammer on the 'seam' of the dust cap & gently tap the business end & it will start to come out.  Repeat around the cap & it will pop off.

But I'm deviating.  When I reassembled the brakes, I noted a torn boot on the driver's side caliper on both pistons.  I also noted a leftward pull on hard braking and I knew I would have to deal with it sooner rather than later.  Interesting to note that the driver's side seems to be more common for sticking than the passenger side.

There are good write-ups in Wayne's 101 as well as a good Tech article on the Pelican site 911 Caliper Rebuild so I won't duplicate their work, but just add my personal insights.

Here is a pic of my calipers pre-cleaning.  There is some corrosion in the leading edge of the piston hole visible - before the seal, so not in a critical (i.e. buy new ones) area.  The inside & the pistons themselves were in great shape with just some gasket residue.  This cleaned up easily with brake cleaner & a light wet sanding with 1000 grit.
My insights:
Do yourself a favor & get some oil line wrenches.  You may regret not getting them.

Air is mandatory for removing sticky pistons.  Have a couple of sizes of C clamps available for holding the opposing piston in 'just enough' to blast the other one out.  Watch your pinkies because it FIRES out.

Mount the calipers with the bleed screw at the top.  I didn't at first & had bleeding hell.  Or at the very least it was a contributing factor to bleeding hell.

Speaking of bleeding, if you have one of the suction type of bleeders, throw it out & get the Motive pressure type.  If you insist on using it, use thread sealer (or someone suggested grease) on the bleeder threads or you will suck air.  For hours & hours.  I know.  Even speed bleeders will suck air through the threads.

The 2 person brake pump bleeding method is still the best.

The brakes will work fine - without squeaks - if you don't align the piston slot.  I ran mine for a while completely reversed & they worked great.

Brake fluid is nasty stuff.

Update:

I was never happy with the passenger caliper.  The driver's front locked several times on panic stops, throwing the light of suspicion onto the passenger side.  I knew the A arm bushing was shot too which also might contribute but I sensed a problem.  One of the pistons had a small horizontal mark.  I lovingly sanded it down with 1000 grit wet & dry.  This is not strong sandpaper, so it took a while but it is now feeling better.  I was able to reuse the piston gaskets.

I also ponied up & got a Motive Bleeder which made the bleeding a breeze.  Just remember to pinch off the overflow.

The brakes feel more secure now.

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