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A great surf movie......PACIFIC VIBRATIONS.

 

SURFING has been a big part of my life.

I started surfing in 1967 when I was 13 and living in Norfolk, Virginia (we surfed at Virginia Beach).

We moved to New Smyrna Beach (N.S.B.), Florida in 1970 and the warm tropical water was much more conducive to surfing year 'round.

N.S.B. has some of the most consistent surf on the entire east coast of the US.

 

At age 31 at my home break (the inlet) in New Smyrna Beach, Florida. 

Both photos above were from the same day. It was pretty fun that summer day.

(Randy Richenberg double-winged twin fin swallow tail with channel bottom)

 

Here I am age 28  at the inlet. As a side note, the surf trunks (baggies) I'm wearing in these three photos were my favorite all time pair I ever owned (and I've owned many a pair in my time.) They were Quicksilvers, tan with black side panels and extremely functional. They fit well and as for looks....well -they were the rage at the time because all the pros were wearing them. Only a surfer knows the feeling of what it feels like to grab your favorite baggies and your trusty shooter and hit the water for a few slashes, bashes, and gashes. And I reckon I did a few in my time........

(Nichols single wing single fin)

 

This was taken south of Bethune Beach age 25. (Nichols single fin swallow)

 

At the N.S.B. inlet age 19. (5' 10" MCG single fin swallow)

 

Age 20 at the inlet. (5' MCG twin fin fish) 

 

These last three photos are from my younger days (I think I was 17) - I'm riding a David Nuihiwa twin fin fish surfing at a beach break in N.S.B. we called The Haven.

 

 

Photos courtesy J. Patrick Altes, Jimmy 'JL' Lane, Jim 'Big Jim' Morris, Jack 'Captain Ono' Reilly, and Mike 'Lugi' Liscovic.

 

Another classic surf movie....FIVE SUMMER STORIES.

And this one (Free Ride) is one of my all-time favorites:

 

SURFING LINKS:

(click on for CREATION website)  -this is my good friend Jack Reilly's web site which commemorates the surfboard company he founded and all the glory and friendships associated with it. Jack is living in Oxnard California now and is an art professor at Cal.State University at Northridge. He still surfs almost every day. 

Castaway Surfing -the entertaining surf chronicles of Ron Taylor from South Australia. Ron is an illustrious story teller constantly in search of surf and adventure down under. Check out his awesome site and typical Aussie narrative.
 

(left to right)

Aussie 'Fatty Al' Hunt -former director of the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP).

Aussie Simon Anderson -former world champion and inventor of the innovative 3 fin thruster surfboard.

Aussie 'T'day' (Terry Day) -former ASP judge representing Australia on the world tour and whose brother is pro surfer Greg Day ('G'day').

American Mike 'Mick' Martin- former ASP judge representing USA on the world tour and who hails from N.S.B.

This photo was taken in South Africa during the 1985 Gunston 500 stop on the ASP world surfing tour. Fatty Al and T'day had been guests at my house during the Florida leg of the tour just prior to the South African leg and along with my longtime friend Mike Martin they staged this little photo shoot with the infamous Simon Anderson who has long been a surfing hero of mine. I'd never actually met Simon but had photos and posters of him surfing all over my house. So this photo is typical bloody Aussie humor I reckon. That's the Gunston 500 contest flyer taped on Al's surfboard and of course Terry is pointing to a box of SURF laundry detergent. Look how tall Simon is. He's a bloody good surfer hailing from North Narabeen near Sydney. He's got a very powerful style and uses his size and aggressive surfing style to stylishly rip the waves apart all over the world.  I'll never forget during their visit, Terry listening to the latest INXS release "The Swing" and in particular the song "Original Sin" as he did his calisthenics each morning before heading to the inlet. He made these big Aussie-style sandwiches with about 10 different components including 'beetroot'. I remember offering Al a stick of gum once and he replied "We don't eat gum in Australia" in his thick Aussie accent. Al currently has the biggest and most complete surfing magazine collection in the entire world.

I also had the South African judge, Tim Williams, stay at my house as well as another Aussie surfing pro named Greg 'Little Ando" Anderson because his last name was Anderson like Simon's but he was not as large a person. All the Aussies have nicknames if you've not figured that out by now.

I'll always remember the time spent with these Aussie blokes.

 

Simon Anderson with his revolutionary 3 fin THRUSTER design gracefully slicing off the top of a right-hander.

The autographed photo says " Hello Barry KEEP THRUSTING" and on the back "Simon Anderson at Cape Town telling us stories about Bazza."  His surfboard company is called ENERGY SURFBOARDS.

 

Behind Blue Eyes

by The Who

No one knows what it's like
To be the bad man
To be the sad man
Behind blue eyes

No one knows what it's like
To be hated
To be fated
To telling only lies

But my dreams
They aren't as empty
As my conscience seems to be

I have hours, only lonely
My love is vengeance
That's never free

No one knows what it's like
To feel these feelings
Like I do
And I blame you

No one bites back as hard
On their anger
None of my pain and woe
Can show through

But my dreams
They aren't as empty
As my conscience seems to be

I have hours, only lonely
My love is vengeance
That's never free

When my fist clenches, crack it open
Before I use it and lose my cool
When I smile, tell me some bad news
Before I laugh and act like a fool

If I swallow anything evil
Put your finger down my throat
If I shiver, please give me a blanket
Keep me warm, let me wear your coat

No one knows what it's like
To be the bad man
To be the sad man
Behind blue eyes

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