Break and Enter – Don’t become a victim!

1- Introduction

Residential break and enter is occurring at a truly alarming rate, and all indications are that the situation will not improve within the near future. What can you do to properly protect your home against the very real threat of break-in ? Fortunately, there are a significant number of very simple and effective ways to add protection to your home without going to great expense - none of which are foolproof, of course -  but collectively, all of which will significantly decrease your odds of being one of the growing number of victims who now wish they had taken preventative measures before they were robbed!

All too often today, people feel that the solution to any problem is to throw a lot of high tech equipment at it, and then lean back and relax - thinking they have solved the problem!  My 15 years of experience as a locksmith and residential security consultant has taught me that often the simple, inexpensive measures can do as much or more to discourage burglars than can the expensive and sophisticated electronic solutions. Today, there are certain minimum steps which must be taken to ensure you don't get broken into, and these will be outlined in order of importance.

The first step in really attacking this problem is to understand the profile of the typical housebreaker. There appear to be two distinct types of thieves. The first is young, most often male, and often relatively inexperienced in his approach to entering a premises - the simple "street thug".  Typically he carries few tools, and relies more on brute strength, or the carelessness of the homeowner, to gain access. Burglary to these thieves is a "crime of convenience", often to finance a drug habit. The second and less common type of thief is what I call the "revolving door" thief. Typically older, in his twenties, he is somewhat more "professional". He has been doing this for many years, and has come to view thievery as his "job". As described to me by a police officer, a picture of his operational lifestyle would be as follows:

 "Steal a car, burglarize a home, do this as many times as he can before getting caught. Once caught, get out on bail, continue to steal until finally convicted of the first crime. Go to the Regional Detention Centre for three months of colour TV and ping pong. Get out again and repeat the procedure many times over, while living well on the proceeds gained from selling hot goods on the black market, all the while continuing to pursue his 'career' of break and enter". 
Regardless of the type of thief involved, there are three things that typically discourage them  - time, noise and light ! By this, I mean they  will not normally spend an inordinate length of time to gain entry; they will make as little noise as possible in doing so, and will avoid being seen !! So, it falls on you - the homeowner - to ensure that everything you do measurably increases these risks for them, and in so doing, decreases the risk for you.

There are three levels of security that can be applied to any residential situation. Make no mistake, they are all important, and must be considered if you are to ensure that you have done everything reasonable in your power to guard against break-in.!

2-Basic Security
The first is what I call "basic security". You begin by developing a security conscious state of mind. The key here is to become "intelligently cautious" by habit , and not allow yourself to become paranoid or paralyzed by fear, as so often happens following a break-in. Remember, at a time of extreme emotional trauma following a burglary, you are in no position to be making rational decisions about security hardware !! . Specifically what you should do in advance is:
•	 Guard your keys well !  Be able to account for all copies, and if there is any doubt they have been "compromised", simply have the locks rekeyed. This is not an expensive proposition , and is a "must do " anytime you move into a new premises. Also, never include your address or phone number on the key ring. This gives anyone finding your lost keys easy access into your home (The War Amps provide a  numbered certificate to put on your key ring which, when found and mailed to them, will ensure they are returned to you)
•	Develop the habit of doing a walk around the inside of your home prior to leaving to ensure all doors and windows are closed and locked. Then religiously follow this routine! (One third of break-ins are through unlocked doors and windows)
•	 Ensure that you do not allow newspapers and mail to pile up in front of the house. This is a dead giveaway for thieves, and, in some high risk neighbourhoods almost guarantees you will be hit (I suggest going so far as putting your request in writing to the newspaper to emphasize your seriousness). Have a neighbour diligently pick up "junk mail" and assorted unsolicited flyers while you are away.
•	Don't leave messages on your answering machine which tell callers that you are gone for an extended period of time (Yes, people actually still do this....!!!!)
•	Do not discard packing containers for such electronic items as computers, VCR's, televisions, camcorders etc, without first cutting them up. Left on the curb for garbage pickup, they are an obvious advertisement for thieves, who do watch for them.
•	Have your driveway shoveled during any absenses in the winter, and your lawn cut during the summer months. 
•	Have a neighbour park his second car in your laneway when you will be absent. You should have someone check the house every 48 hours, to ensure your insurance coverage is not voided. Have that person change the position of drapes and blinds to ensure the house looks "lived in". 
•	Trim any shrubbery that would provide cover for someone attempting to break into your home. Be particularly vigilant if your yard borders common areas such as schoolyards, bicycle paths, graveyards or parks - places where youth often congregate or walk.
•	Lock any gates that provide access into the rear of your home.
•	Ensure that your garage door is down and locked. Better yet, is to install an electronic garage door opener, and turn off the power to it when you leave for extended periods of time. (There are newer models which feature "code hopping" technology to prevent entry by generating codes via electronic means). The garage can be a source of expensive articles of all kinds. Here in the Ottawa area awhile back, a ring of "professional" bicycle thieves were stealing expensive mountain bikes to fence in Montreal and Toronto. Remember also, that once inside a garage, a thief has all the time and concealment in the world to work on the inside door to your home. No normal door - no matter how strongly barricaded- can resist physical assault for long (especially if you have left tools in the garage that will assist him in breaking in !!!) Another simple option is to drill a hole through the track where the garage door wheels slide and clip a long shank padlock through the track on the inside. This ensures the door will not open from either side (Be sure to turn the power off to your electronic door opener to prevent the motor from burning out if it should be triggered accidentally by someone else's door opener)
The key is to ensure you have taken all reasonable steps to ensure your home maintains that "lived in" look, especially when you are away for extended periods. Additional steps such as putting strategically placed lights on automatic timers, leaving radios playing, and installing security lighting are all useful steps.

3-Physical Security

The second and certainly the most important level of security is what can be called simply "physical security" The key here is to ensure that your home is physically harder to enter! This is what is referred to in the security trade as "target hardening" the home.  The idea is to secure the outside perimeter of your home against forced entry. Most new homes are similar in their construction, and requirements can generally be summarized as follows:

Think of a door as a “locking system”, with the overall security being only as good as the weakest link. All exterior doors must be of solid construction, equipped with deadbolts of adequate quality, properly installed with solid steel strikes of 10 inches in length. (As a rule, cedar doors tend to be of weaker construction than solid core or steel doors). The strike should be mounted with six - 3 inch screws that pass through the door facing into the wall stud/frame of the house. Each of the hinges should also be attached with at least one 3 inch screw - again, through the facing into the wall stud. This will make the door substantially harder to kick-in (Note: Many new homes with door frames having glass panels on the lock side of the door will require additional steel re-inforcing on the inside face, since what appears to be a stud is actually just the door and window frame stapled together, and covered with moulding). A simple 12" strip of steel on the inside directly behind the deadbolt, secured with half a dozen 3" screws into the wood perpendicular to the door, will help greatly to strengthen that weak frame.

Wooden doors can have vertical deadbolts installed which are inherently more secure against kick-in attack than are the traditional horizontal deadbolts (Locking bolt extends horizontally outward from the door). These are deadbolts which lock vertically into two rings mounted on the frame of the house and are commonly referred to as "jimmyproof locks" because the physical locking of the deadbolt to its strike provides protection against spreading the door away from its frame. Never buy very cheap versions of this style of lock, since they are made of  brittle material to save money during manufacture (translation - spend at least $30 at retail for the lock. Stay with established brand names such as Dominion, Lori, Weiser, or Schlage, and away from the "branded versions" put out by retailers who have their own name put on off-shore products). On the newer homes, staying with locks on a Weiser keyway will also ensure that all locks can usually be keyed alike when changing locks. (Hint: When purchasing your locks from a large retail outlet, and if you intend to install them yourself, ask to have the locks rekeyed to a relatively new, unused copy of your existing house key. This will cost $5 per cylinder, but save you the price of a locksmith coming to your home to do the same thing)

Horizontal deadbolts mounted in wooden doors should be reinforced with a "wraparound" plate which serves to reinforce the bolt area where it sits in the door. This helps prevent "kick in" of the door, where the bolt itself breaks through the door ( A deadbolt mounted in a door has only a half inch of wood on each side of the bolt - not a very strong arrangement!)

New homes built today usually have a long glass panel beside the lock side of the door. It is mandatory that this strike area is further reinfornced on the inside with at least a foot long piece of one inch wide by three sixteenth thick steel secured with at least six three inch long screws going into the frame perpendicular to the door itself. Failure to do this will almost guarantee that one or two good kicks will break these doors inward allowing quick entry into the home.
•	Don't feel you have to spend additional money on high security locks such as Medeco, Abloy, Abus etc. These are an absolute must on most any commercial establishment, but are generally “overkill” on a house. These locks, practically speaking, cannot be "picked" (not a problem in a residential situation anyway), and are VERY expensive and bothersome to rekey. The primary thing they do for you is to prevent unauthorized duplication of the keys, which should not be a problem if you guard your keys properly! .The bottom line is that you can have your home rekeyed several times for the price difference between any quality lock and a high security lock. Remember, any reasonable quality lock properly installed will afford you more protection than the highest security lock improperly installed !!! (Note: Ottawa police several years ago cracked a ring of thieves who indeed were picking locks to gain entry. However, given the rarity of the situation, I still do not feel high security hardware is warranted in most residential applications - the obvious exceptions being the properties of collectors of stamps, coins, firearms etc, who should definately take additional security precautions, as well as increasing their insurance coverage)
•	Horizontal or vertical deadbolts mounted on doors equipped with windows should be double keyed (key-locked on the inside as opposed to locked with a thumbturn). For those worried about fire exit, there are two options. First is to install a second double cylinder lock above the first, on the same key combination. Then simply use the original thumbturn equipped lock on the bottom during the day or evening, and lock both the locks when the house is empty. This then not only prevents the thief from breaking the glass, reaching in, and opening the thumbturn from the outside, but it also measurably increases the strength of the door against kick-in ! (A good solution provided you don't mind that "New York" look !) Second, the glass in the door can be covered with a non-breakable plastic - on the outside, installed with one-way security screws that cannot be undone. Current purchase price for "Lexan" is about $8 per square foot, purchase price.(However, bear in mind that this material is plastic, scratches easily, and eventually turns milky from the ultraviolet rays of the sun). For all practical purposes, ordinary 1/4" plexiglass will do just as well,and has the added advantage of being much less expensive. As well, modern doors equipped with double or triple paned windows , and / or doors with tempered glass are reasonably secure against glass breakage. (A far greater risk lies in the weak frames into which the deadbolt fits, since they can be so easily be kicked in !!)
•	Basement and other ground floor low-lying windows, and windows opening upon a fire escape are an easily accessible way into a home. The only real solution to this is to install security window bars. Some words of caution are in order here. Stay away from the pre-made, flimsy bars you find in hardware stores - most are a waste of money, and give you a false sense of security, as they are easily compromised. For  almost the same amount of money, there are versions available from established locksmiths, custom metal working firms, and security companies that are custom made and fitted to the window, and (very important), are properly anchored into concrete or strong wood studding. These need not be ugly- there are versions available that are quite attractive, but stay away from the very fancy designs. These are more expensive and can be flimsy if not properly designed, due to the filial decoration inherent in the design. Secondly, any  window covering an area used as a sitting room or bedroom should be equipped with window bars mounted on the inside that can be opened. A key for any associated padlock should be hung down below the window, out of sight and out of reach of the window, preferably accompanied with a decal clearly indicating its use. A replacement key should be put away for safekeeping in case of loss of the original. If more than one window is padlocked, all padlocks should be on the same key. Also, be sure to obey the fire regulations in your particular area (including smoke detectors ). Nothing you own is worth the price of the life of a loved one trapped in a bedroom during a house fire!! 
•	If you do not wish to go to the expense of professionally installed bars (average $60 and up per window, or $8 - $10 per square foot of coverage), there is a "home handyman" solution available. This is to cover the window with several bars made of 1 inch waterpipe, no more than 6 inches apart, with each pipe secured into the stud on either side of the window with attaching screws, or cemented into the concrete itself. This affords a low cost, non-removeable solution to securing those windows not often opened.( In my opinion, such a solution is far superior to the flimsy bar arrangements sold in stores for $15 to $25 each.)
•	I am often asked which window designs are more secure than others. In the newer homes built in the last few years, casement windows are common. These wind out with crank handles on the bottom, and lock with small pull down clamps along one side. These are relatively secure, and can only be forced open by significant effort with a crowbar or like tool. Generally, horizontal sliding windows are much more prone to forced entry, with the older "glass on wood frame" Pearson windows the absolute worst in terms of security (and heat retention).
•	Recently, young thieves have begun to access homes through windows left open on second floors of the home. This is a potential risk if the window is accessible above a verandah or garage roof. Keep them locked at all times when they are not in use. Block sliding windows with tight fitting pieces of wood, and (where possible) with screws above the window in the track to keep the window from being lifted out. In some cases , where the window is a double slider, the outside sliding half of the window  must be actually screwed shut to prevent it being opened. This will restrict you to opening the window using only the other inside portion of it, which you can then block, with a tight fitting stick in the inside track. 
•	Patio doors are another high risk access to the home. The simple solution is to block the moveable patio door from being pryed up and out of its track by putting screws into the frame above the door where it sits when it is in its closed position. (Check the non removeable door to ensure it is truly that !) Then install a "swingdown" bar across the non-removeable door on the inside that blocks the removeable door from being forced open. A tight fitting stick in the track will do almost as well, but the bar being visible will discourage them from prying on the door and damaging it, before they notice the stick in the track ! Also be aware that some thieves have learned to use a notched paint scraper to slip the wood out of its track from the outside). Make sure the bar you purchase is compatible with the type of door frame on the patio door - aluminum, wood, or plastic - since you can't screw very well into plastic. Wood and metal doors can take advantage of bars held in place with screw-secured brackets, while plastic framed doors generally should use  "friction fit" bar arrangements. Regardless of the bar installed, it must be kept tight at all times to continue to be effective. The commercial bar being visible, may deter them from prying on the door when the don't see the stick in the track (These patio doors are expensive, and if they are damaged, you will be asked to pay the amount of your insurance deductible - often as much as $500)
•	I am often asked the best way to secure a cottage against break in. Considering that most cottages are isolated, it it almost impossible to prevent robbery - especially during the winter months - by  thieves accessing these areas by snowmobile. During the summer months, a lockable chain gate can in many instances provide a slight amount of extra security, by preventing thieves from driving directly up to your cottage. The best advise I can give is simply not to leave anything in the cottage which you can't afford to lose. If you must leave valuables, take great care to hide them well (such as in an attic). Alarm systems are only useful if there is a neighbour present to hear the horn. Even if police are called, response time will be significant by which time they are long gone. The best you can hope is the alarm horn will scare them away. Realistically, they may well  feel they have the time to disable the system due to the remote location of your cottage.
•	Today it is increasingly common to have small business ventures co-located in the home. Typically a  business will have a PC and a fax machine , both of which are prime targets for thieves. If the business is located in the basement, ensure that basement windows are covered with blinds at all times so that people looking in cannot see expensive office equipment. The old saying "out of sight, out of mind" applies here.You may want to consider fixing the CPU to the desk with equipment commercially available at computer stores.  Remember to back up your hard drive files to ensure you are not out of business if equipment is stolen, and to protect the privacy of your customers. Inexpensive add on zip drives make it very easy to do this today. Don't keep the backup tapes anywhere they can easily be found or picked up during a robbery. Data encryption software, or a simple password required for access to your hard drive, adds some measure of security against misuse should your customer data be stolen. Be aware that in the Ottawa area, computer theft is rampant, so take special care in regards to guarding these prime target items.

Walk around your home on the outside pretending to be a burglar assessing the risks of breaking in!! You will quickly see the areas that require attention to decrease the risks to you. Follow your instincts and attend to them right away. Human nature being what it is, if you procrastinate, chances are one day you will be saying to yourself "I should have done that before they broke in....!!" (Keep in mind that statistics show that fully one third of breakin's are through kicking in the weak front doors of most new homes; one third are via entry through basement windows, and the remaining one third are through unlocked doors .....!!!!!!)

4-Electronic Security

The third and "highest" level of security, is "electronic security".Here the market is ripe with over 180 local alarm companies only too happy to serve you with their version of a "high end" solution to the problem. Today, it is very much "buyer beware"in this market. Some words of caution are in order:
•	Do the simple, most cost-effective, things first that I have described above. Dollar for dollar, they afford you the best protection for your money, and keep on protecting you month after month with little or no upkeep. For many people, they may be all the protection they need - again depending upon the amount of risk they feel is present.
•	Even if you decide on an alarm system, good physical security is absolutely essential to prevent "smash and grab" break ins (It only takes several minutes to steal your valuables, and can take considerably longer for any manned response to a triggered alarm). Remember, alarm systems basically only warn after your home security has been breached. Good physical security helps ensure that doesn’t happen. (It is interesting to note that prime target shops such as computer and video rental stores are now required by many insurance companies to have bars on all windows as well as an alarm system, in order to obtain insurance coverage! Again, because of the high risk of "smash and grab"!).
•	The first decision to be made once you have decided to obtain an alarm system, is how  you wish to pay for it. Before shopping, decide whether you wish to lease or purchase a system from one of the larger security firms , and pay high monitoring fees ongoing (always under contract), or pay a higher price up front to purchase the system , and enjoy lower monthly monitoring fees ongoing (often with no contractual obligations). It's very much the old adage "pay  now or pay  later !!" It is always cheaper to purchase in the long run. Large alarm company salespeople are strongly encouraged to sell leased systems over outright sale systems for several reasons. Leased systems allow companies to advertise extremely low up front prices since they are retaining ownership of the equipment and don't have to amortize the costs in their prices. Most important to them, it also ensures customers must continue to stay with them long term at their higher monitoring rates (Human nature being what it is, most customers will opt to re-sign a high priced monitoring contract once again, rather than switch out the equipment for another supplier, with all its associated hassles).It also ensures they don't have to offer the latest technology alarm panels to attract customers, since most consumers are not aware of brand names/models etc in this market. If on the other hand, you opt to purchase your panel, you can be reasonably assured you will receive the latest technology of alarm equipment, since the medium and smaller companies don't have large inventories of older equipment which they must first clear from their shelves.(Many of the larger firms have equipment made at the factory with their name and stamp on it, which implies a long term commitment with that firm regardless of the state of development of the hardware). If you decide on the purchase option, with no contract for the monitoring, or no monitoring,  look to the smaller contractors, since all medium and large companies will only deal in the contractual monitoring option. (One of the secrets of the alarm industry is that there is a 97% retention rate for monitored systems after the initial contract period is finished, so it pays them to get the customer's business any way they can !!) Leased and purchased systems from larger firms automatically include maintenance (at least for the first while); purchased systems from smaller contractors vary greatly for ongoing maintenance support, but reputable firms will go out of their way to ensure ongoing customer satisfaction.Typically, most companies (large or small) will warranty the system as long as it is monitored through them for everything except lightning strike and  failure of  the backup battery. Some of the larger companies however, will charge a maintenance fee of  several dollars per month to provide maintenance after a certain period of time. Also inquire about ongoing service visit costs, which can be significant through the larger companies (average $90 per visit and hourly rates up to $50 per hour). Remember that the lease or purchase of an alarm system is a long term commitment with the supplier of your choice, so be sure at the front end that you are going to be comfortable with your choice long term. 
•	Alarm systems are currently being advertised for ridiculously low prices - many even being provided for free ! However, don't be fooled - you still only get what you pay for in this business as in all others !! (Think of so called "free" purchased systems with their bloated monitoring rates as just another disquised finance arrangement !!) In recent years, competition has become fierce - even cut throat - and as I mentioned previously, all the major players in the alarm business have resorted to advertising ridiculously low prices to provide and install an alarm system to attract your interest, and get their foot in your door !! (Its not an exaggeration to say that at the current moment, the alarm industry is engaged in a cut throat price war with the "mass marketers" of alarm systems. Even Bell Canada is entering the alarm business with the usual "mini system", hoping to "cream skim" the market of lucrative monitoring revenues).  Many of their salespeople have strict quotas and are routinely fired when they eventually don't meet them. As a result, they often resort to high pressure tactics to get you to sign a contract. Bear in mind again, that large companies push leasing over purchasing for the simple reason that it ensures you remain with them for monitoring. With a purchased system, you are free to shop around for your monitoring after the initial contract expires. Others actually telemarket alarm systems (it is beyond this writer's comprehension why anyone would buy a system over the phone, when no one has even evaluated the needs of the home in question)  But what they don't highlight is they are also locking you into that very high priced contract for from 3 to 5 years for monitoring, with prices  running from $20 to over $50  ($24.40 per month being the North American average), often calculated based on the amount of equipment installed (Another way to boost monitoring prices !!) Once they arrive on the scene, their low price rarely covers enough equipment to properly protect your home, so you may end up spending in many instances the same amount to install their rental system, as you would spend to purchase one from a smaller contractor - while still being obligated to pay inflated monitoring rates, and continue to be subject to all sorts of  fees later for every little service you may need. Remember, larger firms have a considerable overhead in sales staff, administration, and especially advertising, which must be covered in their rates.
•	Give serious consideration to whether or not you wish a "monitored" alarm system (monitored remotely over phone lines by the alarm company for a monthly fee) or a "local" alarm (which simply sets off a very loud horn inside or outside the building to scare off thieves, and depends upon the goodwill of your neighbours to call authorities). There are reasons both pro and con for either option, although the monitored system is far superior in that it can provide both fire and medical emergency monitoring as well (False alarms where police are called to respond to a blasting outside horn can cost you money in some jurisdictions in addition to their obvious nuisance value !!) Most insurance companies will also give discounts from 10 to 15% on home insurance when the alarm system is monitored for both burglary and/or fire. Remember, though, that the alarm company makes the majority of its revenues from the monthly monitoring fee assessed each and every month ($24.40 per month / 5 year contract the North American average). As you might expect, none of the larger companies will provide a "local" system (or if they will, it is typically double the price it should be if you shop around). As a result, you will not hear many advocates for a “local” alarm system, even though in certain specialized circumstances they can make  sense. If you have decided to go with a local system, one option which the latest technology of alarm equipment provides is the option to have the system call your numeric pager upon alarm. It can be set up within the dialer portion of the alarm panel to send specific digits which alert you to the presence of an alarm ie: four digit account number. If you do choose this option, plan in advance what you intend to do if you do receive a signal from the panel.
•	Be very cautious of alarm companies offering "specials" of $199 or so (or even "free") for a "complete" system. This is the installation price for a minimal leased system (2 doors and one motion detector) and is a "low ball" tactic to get in the door, after which they will boost the price to cover extra options needed. Or , if it is a sale at this price, they are using bottom of the line technology equipment which in itself can sometimes  be the cause of false alarms. And always, they will lock you into that non-refundable contract for 2 to 5 years to recoup their costs and capture those highly desirable monthly revenues. (One particular company in the area demands written cancellation sixty days prior to the end of the 5 year contract - otherwise the term is automatically extended for an additional five year term. Should you wish to exit the contract prior to the end of the term, they may actually sue you for the balance). At the time of this printing, monitoring is available at $15 per month with no contract required, on purchased systems,  and is available through a number of smaller alarm contractors (average purchase price $500 for four doors and two motion detectors installed). These firms, in turn, outsource to professional monitoring companies, which are as fully qualified and reputable as any of the larger "in-house" monitoring stations owned by major alarm companies (contrary to advertising by the larger firms which indicates otherwise). Many of these smaller contractors actually use the facilities of the larger firms on a subcontract basis.  Should problems arise with your system (which sends trouble and alarm status to the monitoring station via your interconnected home telephone) they in turn will advise your alarm installer, who will rectify the situation. After sales service is very important with the purchase of any alarm system. These systems are intricate, quite sensitive, and although very reliable, may require fine tuning on occasion to continue to perform properly. In fact, with most larger companies using exactly the same hardware, after sales service quality and costs may well be the main differentiator between companies. Should the smaller firm go out of business in the future, any of the larger firms will be only too pleased to pick up your monitoring requirements, and your maintenance (this is a gift to them, since they don't have to install the system). Smaller, one man outfits can often give a level of low or no cost personalized service, because their name and reputation is highly dependant upon word or mouth advertising. Smart business people know that a single dissatisfied customer is one too many !!! However, it always pays to look at the reputation, ethics, service backup capabilities, and longevity of any firm you plan to deal with, and this is especially important with smaller contractors.
•	Should you own your alarm system, and have come to the end of your original high priced monitoring contract, consider shopping for a new supplier of alarm monitoring services who doesn’t require a long term contract.  However, if leaving the original supplier (who installed your system), insist they do two things before going - returning the installer's code back to factory default, and unlocking the code so it can be changed. Without this, no one else can reprogram your system for the dial in numbers of your new monitoring supplier without physically swapping out the alarm panel (cost to you for a return to factory about $50). With many boards older than 10 years, this may not even be possible) Remember, you own this system and they have no right to refuse this service. They also should never charge for a visit to do this, since it can or should be able to be done over the phone line via their remote dial-in software at the station. However, don't expect older alarm panels to provide anything other than basic service. Better to change the system out and get a modern system. You wouldn't run your business using a 8088 vintage computer. Why expect the same vintage alarm panel to serve your  current security needs ?!!
•	 In designing an alarm system, the contractor or salesman must consider whether you have pets (which can significantly affect the types of "space detection" alarm options used inside the home), and whether or not you are prepared to live with the technical aspects of turning on and off the alarm system religiously when you leave the house. Although modern alarms are very “user friendly” to operate (and will be explained properly to you by any reputable alarm company), it may not suit some people's inclinations or lifestyles. The alarm system could end up being a waste of money if you don't use it!  One of the secrets of the alarm industry, is the fact that the alarm stickers prominently displayed on doors and windows provide a significant deterrent in themselves! (That is one of the reasons why all alarm companies jealously guard distribution of their stickers !!!) Normal layout of an alarm system will involve contacts wired to every entry/exit and patio door, plus some form of interior "space detection" device. This usually is a passive infrared motion detector which looks for the heat of a moving human body crossing an area subdivided into a  number of zones. Professional quality devices today are quite secure against "false alarms" due to the sophisticated technology involved (and this is another reason to only install professional quality equipment). .For difficult situations, "dual technology" devices are available at extra cost, which use infrared combined with microwave, and which will only alarm when both technologies detect a person (this is an improvement in that the common causes of false alarms for each technology are different, and both technologies must sense a person simultaneously to cause an alarm condition). Professional installers also know how to avoid  problems caused by improper location of these devices within the home.  Motion detectors  can be masked with special lenses to allow normal movement of pets within the home (called a "pet alley" lens). Dual technology glass break detectors are available which are carefully tuned to alarm on the frequency of breaking glass combined with the compression wave created when glass breaks. A heat detector can be set above the furnace which will set off the 24 hour fire alarm circuit on the system. Special smoke detectors can also be attached to the alarm system to provide fire protection in the same manner. Low temperature devices can guard against freezing should the furnace malfunction during an extended absence. Water level switches can guard against rising water levels in the basement should the sump pump malfunction.. (Smoke, heat, low temperature, and water level detectors are always "on" even when the burglary portion of your alarm system is "off").  All of the latest technology panels also easily  provide for the addition of options such as remote arming and disarming of the panel, and home automation functionality.
•	Be cautious of any company that insists they can wire upstairs or main floor windows with no wire showing, after the house has been completed. Although it is possible to do it, it is usually not possible to do it without tearing the vapour barrier inside the wall. This will over time cause serious moisture damage to the home at the point of the tears. However, since this only shows up over time, many alarm companies will wire your windows this way to win your business.  If you insist on having this done, have it done externally and use special moulding (which usually ends up being concealed by drapes anyway) to conceal the wiring. Remember, if the window is broken and they enter without actually tripping the window contacts and setting off the alarm, and you have no interior motion detectors, your security has been defeated. The willingness to do this also should tell you something about the alarm contractor in question !!!
•	Should you choose to purchase an electronic alarm system, do not take a "micky mouse" do-it-yourself approach to the situation in an attempt to save a few dollars!! Deal with a reputable firm of your choosing, after getting at least two or three quotes (they can vary widely), and go with the company and people that make you feel most comfortable, no matter what their size.  Read all of the terms of  any contract closely, since you may only be leasing the equipment when you think you are purchasing it. Beware of companies reluctant to allow you time to read the contract and who exert high pressure to have you  sign right away!  This is a pretty good indication that you are dealing with a reasonably aggressive company utilizing specialized sales people to capture your business (translation - the sales person is working on commission and has a quota to meet. His or her commission is included in the price you pay for your system!!!)
•	 A home that is properly "prewired" can save you money on the alarm installation, provided it has been done properly by someone familiar with the requirements of an alarm installation, and is not just prewired for telephone. Many builders contract with security firms or subcontractors to have all their new homes prewired for their customers. They are generally charged $150 to $250 for this service by the security company, who often leave their stickers on one or two windows, hoping the new buyer will not bother to shop around and call them directly for their alarm system. Or as often happens, call that particular alarm company in the mistaken belief that they must deal with them and no other. My advice, shop around.! This  prewiring should be worth $100 to you off the purchase of any alarm system from any dealer. If it isn't, keep shopping !
•	 Check to ensure that your phone line where it enters the house is not exposed. If it is (and those at most older homes are), you run the risk of having someone cutting your phone line before breaking in , in order to disable the monitoring capabilities .Although this seems an obvious security risk, in my experience I have never heard of this actually happening prior to a residential break in. I am amazed that it doesn't actually happen given the ease of disabling an alarm this way. Many alarms have a built in telephone line monitor which can be set to trip the alarm if the phone line is cut when the system is armed.  This will cause the system to activate and blow the local horn, but of course it will still be unable to communicate with the monitoring station.( Cellular backup is available for most panels  at extra cost for critical installations.) However, the best thing is to have the phone line buried, armoured, or re-routed and concealed.
•	 Never agree to pay a fee to interconnect the alarm to the telephone system. This is always done as part of the installation of any monitored alarm system. In order for the alarm to function properly, it must seize the line in an alarm condition and exclude any telephones on that line to ensure that a burglar can't simply lift a telephone and deactivate the dialing capabilities of the panel. This requires a special jack and cable, and proper wiring (the vast majority of home owner installed systems purchased at retail are simply plugged into a phone jack and are abolutely useless for dialing out if a burglar picks up any extension telephone set on that same line)
•	The latest high technology professional wireless alarm systems have come a long way recently, and are no longer as prone to false alarming as they were. However, most professional companies avoid installing them as the prime system, since they remain far more trouble prone due to the need for periodic battery replacement (not always easily done by anyone but an installer).  The best of these systems are very expensive as well. The cheapest of these devices available in hardware stores are strictly "do it yourself" projects, and usually encompass a phone dialer in an attempt to avoid monitoring costs. Professionally speaking, that sort of approach is very unwise, since phone dialers calling  friends and relatives usually  prove to be ineffective.( Someone once described installing a non-monitored alarm system as akin to throwing a drowning man a lifepreserver without a rope attached !!!)  If you must do this, at least have the system dial your numeric pager (although most of these low end systems are not yet capable of this type of dialing either). It remains a far wiser idea to install a basic professional hardwired system, have it monitored professionally, and use wireless components to service points impossible to reach with wiring (there are actually very few of those !!)
•	Ask about the provisions to move the equipment if you move to a new home, to ensure that the contract allows this flexibility. As I said, the newer wireless alarm systems are considerably more expensive initially, but offer the option of easy transfer to another home at a later date. Many firms will box up your old system (hardwired or wireless) and re-install it in your new home for a nominal fee, to ensure they don't lose your future monitoring revenues.
•	Whoever you decide to deal with, ensure that you will be able to obtain as many stickers as you need to adequately cover all vulnerable doors and windows. (The availability of custom stickers displaying a company name and phone number is one more indication of a company truly in the business long term). Many firms scrimp in this area to save money, and this is poor policy. However, don't expect them to give you additional stickers (many of which are passed along to friends who don't have the system to go along with them ! This reduces everyone's security.) Probably the most important sticker is the one smack in the middle of your garage door, clearly advertising to the most casual observer the presence of an alarm system)
•	Check with your neighbours to get references to companies that have served them well. In the small business environment, "word of mouth" is often the best way to locate reputable businesses. Remember, there is no licensing requirement for alarm installers in Ontario yet,  as there is in most other provinces, so you really have no way of ensuring a quality installation. If in doubt, check out the company or contractor with the Better Business Bureau.
•	Effective April 1998, the Regional Municipality of Ottawa Carleton  now requires a one time  license of $26, which registers your alarm system with the police authorities. . Each alarm in which police are dispatched, and which proves to be false, will involve a $60 charge. The only way to avoid this is to subcontract the actual response responsibilities to a" third party response company" (such as Pinkertons to name only one) who are responsible to visit the home once notified of an alarm condition by the monitoring company (average charge per response $25). If they find proof of an actual break-in, the police are then notified and will always respond to their call . All the more reason to be sure you choose an alarm company  which installs a professional system, and which is seriously interested in working with you on an on-going basis to prevent false alarms.
•	Lately several U.S.-based companies have begun marketing "over the counter alarm systems" which promise relatively inexpensive space detection monitoring of the area inside the home on a "standalone" basis. These systems meaure the air compression of a door or window opening suddenly. I suggest you avoid these as a general rule. They are very susceptible to false alarms, and tend to be overpriced due to the multi-level marketing involved, and really don't do anything more than the same type of hardware which has been available for years through such established retailers as Radio Shack. In this writer's opinion, none of the equipment fitting this description can be considered professional quality equipment, and to my knowledge, no monitoring station will hook up to such a false alarm prone system.
•	Recently a new company on the scene in Ottawa has begun to aggressively market a minimal system (2 doors / 1 motion detector) which is completely wireless, and which you own immediately with no money down, with a four year $30 per month contract for monitoring. They have flooded the market using students to sell these systems who have  limited knowledge of security systems and their requirements. Although the hardware is technically good quality, it is the bare minimum system necessary, and has all the false alarm problems inherent in all wireless systems. Their success in the Ottawa market is clear evidence of the success of high intensity marketing combined with the surprising number of consumers who buy security on impulse without doing comparative shopping. There is clear evidence on several installations that I have inspected that the system is not always correctly wired into the phone system, allowing the system to be easily defeated.  I strongly suggest you can do far better, in spite of the very attractive pricing (As an addendum to the above, this firm has now gone out of business and sold all their   accounts to another Toronto based firm, who (I presume) will do their best to clean up the mess!!)
•	Very recently, another very slick company has begun to sell alarm systems door to door, promising to save you monitoring fees by grouping with your neighbours and having the systems dial each other. Each system costs in excess of $2000, and is nothing more than an internal motion detector hung on the wall with a built-in phone dialer. To ease the pain, they throw in a few gimmicks such as air horms, and fire extinquishers which perhaps add to the marketing appeal, but doesn't justify in any way their overpriced product. The system design is totally inadequate, and is sold using fear tactics, by people dressed in very official uniform dress. In this writer's opinion, this is the most extreme case of excessive selling in this market I have ever encountered, and frankly borders on fraud !!
•	Another approach being promoted in the marketplace, is the ability for the monitoring station to listen in to the home after an alarm has occured, in order to actually challenge anyone on premises (called in the industry "two way  voice"). While this may sound like an improvement over conventional monitoring, it sounds far better than it actually is, but it certainly has valid marketing appeal. I know that police agencies tend to like it, since they tend to see it as another way to verify false alarms; however, in reality, it is not as effective as it might appear at first glance. This ability, and the special equipment needed, has been around for some time, and has never really caught on with consumers (although at least one large national company has "hung their hat" on this technology). In this writer's opinion, it is of very limited if any extra value, and certainly shouldn't detract from your shopping for the overall best security value for your home.
•	Many alarm companies are establishing alliances with other firms such as retailers, real estate agents, and insurance companies to have their alarm services promoted along with the host's services. While there is certainly nothing at all wrong with this approach, be aware that such services usually end up being no real bargain, and as one more part of the mass marketing scheme for alarm system promotion, usually are at the higher cost end of the scale in ways to obtain your system.
•	After you have narrowed down your search, ask your prospective supplier(s) whether their panel(s) incorporate the very latest in false alarm prevention features. While lack of these should not preclude you from accepting their service (everything else being satisfactory), it will at least position their hardware against the latest in the marketplace. Some of the best of the new features are:                                                                                                           1- Delay before transmission, giving you  30 or so seconds to shut off a false alarm before the panel grabs the telephone line and dials the monitoring station.                      2- Recent close delay, sending a special code to the station along with the alarm codes, indicating that the alarm has occured within several minutes of system arming (a common false alarm)                                                                                                     3- "Intellizoning" or "cross zoning" , which requires a motion detector to trip twice within a given time frame, or two motions on a system to both trip within a set period, before an alarm is generated (This is probably the most important false alarm prevention development, since many alarms are caused by motions tripping due to environmental causes)                                                
      4-"Two button panic functions" to prevent accidental panic alarms when only one key is  pressed by accident. Two key panic arming is the way the industry is going.
	5-“ User disarmed after alarm “ which is what it says. This code sent along with the other codes for the zone that was tripped, is interpreted by the station as a “cancel” code, and no action will be taken to dispatch.

	Another significant development inherent in the latest panels is sophisticated software incorporating "event logs" stored in the software of the panel. This provides  the capability of doing "real time" remote diagnostics of panel functions and operation. 
      This allows the dealer to access the panel to investigate the causes of a particular event or alarm with precision accuracy. This is the single most important feature in the newest panels from a dealer's perspective in analysing problems and doing remote diagnostics. Ultimately, this provides a dealer's customers with a significantly higher level of true support. In this writer's opinion, as a consumer, I would not purchase an alarm panel from any supplier (regardless of size) unless he could assure me of the availability of such software in his panel, and also assure me his panels are put on line with his corporate computer (in addtion  to the monitoring station receiver which it must be to be monitored)

5- How to shop

Confused about which panel to buy and who to deal with ?

There can be a great deal of information to deal with after getting several quotes from suppliers!  Following are some guidelines to help you wade through the mess of conflicting facts and pricing schemes:

1- Do not buy on price alone. The lowest price is not always the truly lowest price over the long term. You must compare costs over a five year period based on initial cost, cost of monitoring, cost of service calls, and cost of warranty. Beware the lure of the "free" system. There is no such thing - you get what you pay for in this business like all others! This is basically deceptive advertising being disquised as "marketing". If you do decide on this option however, know beforehand what you are locking into by way of total cost and service. While price is always a major consideration, too much preoccupation with price alone can blind you to other equally important concerns.

2- Do not allow yourself to be locked into a monitoring contract in excess of one year if purchasing your system outright.  Remember, a contract does not in any way serve your interests, and is there solely to protect the dealer's revenue stream. The argument that it guarantees you long term price stability is just not so with most alarm company contracts. 

3- Shop for your dealer with the same care you shop for your system. Look very closely at the person or firm you are dealing with. Will they be here tomorrow when you need service (This is especially important here in the Ottawa area, where people enter and leave this business on a monthly basis.These amateur "trunk slammers" are responsible for a lot of poorly installed systems purchased by people too quick to purchase on price only.  My partner and I often comment on how we rarely see the same faces at distributor sponsored events from month to month). The smaller the dealer, the more you should examine his qualifications to do the job, ie: number of accounts, years in business, backup service capabilities etc. Remember, there is currently no licensing requirements or background check required to set up a security business in Ontario. 
On the other hand, dealing with a large corporation guarantees you very little as a consumer, other than most certainly costing you more, with generally a less personal level of service, and a binding contract which can and often does get sold as these larger corporations swallow each other up. Be just as careful dealing with large companies as you would in dealing with smaller companies. Often, being a large corporation, they can not or will not be as flexible on price or unique requirements that you may need or ask for. This seems to come about due to a certain level of "institutionalized bureaucratic stupidity" which seems to be ingrained in most all large corporations today!!  If purchasing one of these "free" systems, you will be bound for from $30 per month to as high as $50 per month for a period of time. If at the end of the contract period, you do not request your fee to go down to pay just for the monitoring (now that you have finished financing the system), they will leave your monthly payments at the higher level. The ethics of this situation I will not bother to comment on !!.... At this point, shop around for monitoring from another source and do not pay more than $20 monthly (monthly term contract).

4- Don't pay much attention to companies telling you how their panel is better than everyone else's . In this industry, every installer / company has a panel which they prefer and in their mind, everyone else's choices are poorer. At security get togethers, this is always a point of lively discussion!! As long as you are buying professional equipment, and it serves your current and projected needs, all will serve your basic security requirements (DSC, Paradox, Ademco, Napco, Caddyx, ITI, FBI, Linear, Europlex, to name a few common makes- Radio Shack does NOT qualify!)

5- Follow your gut instincts about the person or company you are dealing with.  Do they seem honest in their sales approach to you, or do they exert high pressure to close the sale. Be especially careful dealing with a pure salesman who is not himself going to be involved with the actual installation- they can be tempted to say things to win your business which may not be accurate or possible to do. Many salespeople are short term in this business, and may not be fully knowledgeable about security specifics. (Doing sub-contract work for large firms, we experience the greatest problems when going in behind a salesperson who has promised impossible things in order to close the sale, and we then must break the unhappy news as to what realistically can and should be done).

6- Ask your friends for their experiences with their alarm companies. Did they come when service was required ? Did the service cost money, and if so, was the price reasonable?  Did the company clean up after themselves? Smart alarm companies know that word of mouth is the very best advertising for security services. However, use that as a starting point only,but make your own decision. Most people (provided they haven't experienced problems) will wax eloquently about their choice of firms. To do otherwise is against human nature!

7- Ask about the company's "false alarm policies". Reputable companies who care about their reputation will gladly pick up false alarm fees assessed due to failure of the actual equipment. 

8- Discuss up front any special requirements you need to ensure your new panel has that capability. While you may initially purchase for reasons of theft prevention, you may later decide to add to the system to cover fire, heat, cold, gas detection etc. Avoid installing a panel which is at capacity from day one. Leave yourself room (at least one zone) to add on additional requirements which you may need in the future.

9- Insist that your company check all internal software settings via upload/download software after installation.(Even being as careful as I am, I still make "finger trouble" programming mistakes in one out of five installations, which need corrective action via uploading). Also look for a company which programs in cancel codes for your protection against false dispatches which can cost you money.

10- When you make your final decision, don't put any money down up front. That should never be required since the equipment costs are not in the same league as a furnace or air conditioner !!  Smaller firms that do this are generally running their business on a shoestring budget, and this can be an indication of the level of service you can expect later on. 

11- Discuss the design of your system with several companies and look for a design which covers all traffic areas inside the home. For example, one medium sized company in this area typically installs no motion detectors, relying solely on glass break detectors to provide inside protection. This is clearly defective design in that should the burglar pry open a window rather than break it - far more likely with heavy modern double pane windows -  there is absolutely no protection whatsoever 

12- Insist on a guarantee that the equipment you are purchasing is not "proprietary" and can be monitored by any other company. Many larger companies especially are guilty of installing this type of equipment to prevent you from leaving them in the future.  Insist that after the term of any contract, should you wish to go elsewhere for your monitoring, that the company will reset your installers code back to factory default, and unlock the board so it can be reprogrammed (this is vital - and get it in writing as part of any contract)

Finally, remember that your alarm system can not be effective unless you have done the physical security updates needed first - good locks, good strikes, patio door security, and window bars for all your basement windows (sorry...   felt I had to add this again because it IS even more important than your alarm!!)

	6-Equipment Preview

As far as common professionally rated brand names offered in the market,  I can only offer a personal opinion based on my being in the business and having installed most types of alarms. Bear in mind, those companies which deal in a particular make will of course tend to see their equipment as the best for you and always have some reason (real or otherwise) why other panels are inferior. Also, every installer has his/her own favourite panel, and one which they use for the majority of their installations. 

	DSC (Digital Security Controls of Mississauga, Ontario. - Probably the most common make installed in this area of Canada. .Most of the larger and medium sized companies use this equipment and it is excellent, although not the most modern as far as false alarm prevention features go. DSC supply the equipment for a lot of firms who put their own name on it  (called "OEM marketing - original equipment manufacturing - a common practice in industry). Their products  run from the ho hum, feature poor, but adequate DSC 1500 / 1550  6 zone, up to the DSC 3000 16 zone version, through to the very exotic and more expensive and more modern DSC Power 832 hybrid panel, and expensive wireless panels. The DSC 832 is the clear choice in their product line if you wish to add features such as integrated intercom, voice response modules, X10 Pro home automation modules, or wireless additions. Just recently, they have added the DSC 1555/1575 "Classic" series of upgraded panels in an attempt to "play catchup" with the competition. These are wired/wireless hybrid panels, and are priced competitively for the low end residential and small business markets.  Most leased or "free" systems put in by the mass marketers use the low end hard wired older 6 zone 1550 panels made by DSC. This line of equipment is the "Chev/ Pontiac" bottom end line of hardware in the industry. Reasonable upload / download software, but no "event log", so very difficult to remotely diagnose the panel. Impossible to remotely investigate alarms.
	
	Paradox Security Systems of  Montreal  - the very best of equipment on the market generally speaking, and this writer's clear choice of alarm panel for general residential or commercial use.  A very forward looking , responsive company, truly concerned with quality control and quality products. Factory assembly line techniques utilize the very latest board manufacturing techniques for top notch quality control. The best upload  / download software available in the industry  with a 256 event log.  Feature rich, user friendly equipment !!! Definately a "Buick" at Chev prices. This panel has given this writer the least amount of after installation service troubles, and was the only line of equipment to survive the rigors of the "ice storm of '98" virtually unscathed (short of a few minor problems easily solved over the phone via the software).
	
	Ademco - the largest maker of alarm equipment in the world. Made in the USA, it is  very good equipment, albeit a little long in the tooth design wise!! Very comprehensive line of equipment with extensive wireless offerings. Complete range of panel sizes and configurations up to the very huge .Larger variety of keypads available than many manufacturers.

	FBI - American equipment with boards that appear to be manufactured using inferior assembly line techniques. I stay away from this obviously cheaply  made equipment (although it is sufficiently rated to be able to be hooked to a professional monitoring station). Ademco own the FBI line of equipment. 

	Napco/Gemini - appears to be excellent equipment, although I have no hands-on experience with this hardware whatsoever. Newest lines include wireless capabilities.
	Well regarded by those who use the product. Quite common in the USA 

	Moose (Sentrol) -  an excellent line of panels. Beautiful keypads. Software appears to be reasonable as well, but still not up to the sophisticated level of the Paradox panels. More expensive at wholesale level than most panels on the market (which guarantees you nothing as a consumer). Parent company Sentrol is noted for its quality  products marketed to the security industry.

	Linear - made in California, and noted for their wireless systems and accessories. Good equipment as far as wireless goes (the professional versions anyway).  Also offer a full line of wireless components often used as wireless attachments to a hardwired panel to service points not accessible with wiring (this writers choice for add-on wireless components)

	Caddyx - appears to be excellent equipment although I have no first hand experience with this line of hardware. Noted for its difficulty to program, so hopefully any installer knows his stuff.

7-Summary

In summary, my experience has clearly established some groundrules that I guide my    customers by:
•	Do not allow your security concerns cause you to over-react to the overall situation, but do make a conscious effort to cost-effectively harden your home against break-in at the earliest possible occasion.
•	Do the simple, more cost-effective things first, and never neglect the no-cost things.
•	Choose high strength and properly installed physical options over the very sophisticated electronic solutions as your first line of defence, and then decide if you wish the "high end" electronic solutions as a second choice.
•	Never purchase any security options in a state of high emotional stress (for example, immediately after you have been hit !) You are too open to grabbing the first and often the most expensive solutions offered !! Take the time to calculate and compare the overall, total cost of electronic security purchases over the longer term (i.e: total cost = initial installation / purchase price, plus monthly monitoring times number of months under contract, plus factor in several service costs at $50 average per visit over the term of the contract). You will very quickly see the real cost of your choice, as well as be able to better compare offerings before you purchase !!) Also factor in the end of lease purchase price if you intend to go shopping for cheaper monitoring. Remember, an alarm system over a period of five to ten years will cost thousands of dollars - as much of an investment in your home as a new furnace or air conditioning unit would be. So, to repeat, don't be fooled by "free" offers - buy your system and shop around for the best overall, long term monitoring costs being especially careful to build in service and warranty costs in your total cost assessment !! 
•	Make sure your insurance coverage is up to date, including "replacement insurance" so that if you do get robbed, the expense will be minimized. Talk to your insurance company regarding the limits of your policy on particularly expensive options you keep in your home (Many policies have ceilings on payouts on certain types of articles not covered by additonal cost "riders").
•	Remember that the true measure of real security of your home is the sum of all the individual steps you have taken to secure it. Security measures are cumulative in nature. The more things you do, the more secure is your home. It is also a fact that the best security in the world can be compromised by forgetting one simple overlooked area which allows the thief easy access into your home. You can't really keep out a thief who has decided that he is determined to enter your home, but this is not the norm, since the average burglar is looking for a quick and easy way into anyone's home - not just yours. The bottom line is that if your home is difficult or risky to enter, the thief will most likely go somewhere else  where he can find basically everything that he can find in your home, but without the difficulty of getting in and the chance of exposure !!!
One final point is appropriate considering some of the comments I hear from people who feel they don't wish to do anything in the way of precautions. I often hear..."Why bother to do anything; the kids will get in the house if they really want to!!" Acceptance of this attitude is tantamount to saying you intend to give up and simply hope the problem will pass you by! These same people would never consider driving their car without insurance, or leaving their home unprotected without insurance against fire, yet seemingly won't take even simple precautions against break and enter (which is far more likely).  I often compare this approach to that of someone who obliviously walks across a superhighway during rush hour hoping all the while that all drivers will see him or her and be responsible or alert enough to stop..... !!!

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What are the first things I should do in securing my home?

A: Without a doubt, the first and most important things are to make sure your doors are adequate in strength, and equipped with decent deadbolt locks, which go into re-inforced strikes in the doorframe. The door itself should also be re-inforced around the area of the door where the bolt sits in the actual door. Following closely behind that is to make sure your patio door is fitted with screws above the track to prevent lifting the doors out of their tracks, and also equipped with a swingdown bar behind the door itself. Last but by no means least, is to ensure all basement windows and low lying ground floor windows are equipped with proper window bars. In our area, one third of break-ins are through kicking in a door, and one third are through forced entry of basement windows. There is no reason to think that it is necessarily any different in any other area. 

Q: How necessary is it to purchase an alarm system?

A: That depends upon your individual circumstances. Ask yourself these questions:  
1-Are you prepared to live with the nuisance of an alarm system?                                 
2-Are you comfortable that you will be able to understand some of the necessary intricacies of use of a system? 
3-Are you prepared to pay for an addition to your home which will cost over time as much as a furnace installation?                                                                                       
4-Will you actually use the system if you put it in? 
If the answer to all these questions is "yes", and you have done the physical security upgrades already, then the time could be right to add an alarm system to your home.
Q: How do I know who to deal with in selecting a supplier? 

A: Ask around among your neighbours. Consult the local Yellow Pages. Search in smaller localized publications for dealers in your immediate area. Above all, shop around!  This is a fiercely competitive business, and the consumer is in the driver's seat!  Pay special attention to the information in that portion of my article in dealing with electronic alarm systems, and don't be unduly swayed by proposals for so-called "free systems". Although, I readitly admit to a certain amount of bias on this point, it is my experience that you generally get a better overall deal if you deal with a small to medium sized local dealer, rather than one of the brand name, larger national alarm companies. Size and market presence don't automatically equate to value or price! See also my cautions in the section on electronic alarms. 

Q: Should I lease or buy my system?

A: If you are adding a system to your home, it is far preferable to purchase the system outright, thereby allowing you to negotiate the best monitoring rate with the shortest possible contract.  However, if you are installing in a business, and / or don't plan to be at that location for a long time, it may be better to lease. There may  be a tax advantage to leasing the system as well.   However, if you do lease, know that this will likely cost you over time, a great deal more than an outright purchase.

Q: All my neighbours have alarms. If I don't get one, aren't I more likely to be targeted?

A: That depends!  Remember, thieves are not generally targeting specific houses  per se; they are generally looking to get in anyone's home, and in the easiest way possible. So if your home is very difficult physically to break into, they will likely pass you by for "easier pickings" (with or without an alarm!) The presence of alarm system decals simply tells them they have less time to work in the home should they do decide to break into it. A big problem resulting from the current push for alarms is that once the consumer puts one in, he then relaxes his guard, thinking he is totally safe! Some of the very best things you can do are to form "neighbourhood watch" type community programs (talk to your police). These programs let the world know you are watching out for your neighbours. Word gets around to the thieves very quickly who generally tend to avoid such neighbourhoods !!  Bottom line, though, common sense would dictate that a thief seeing a home equipped with an alarm system would probably pass it by in favour of another home without an alarm system (all things being equal)
In the world of security, there are no absolutes, because you are dealing with people!! What will scare off one thief might be largely ignored by another. 
My experience in this business has taught me one hard and fast rule:
Do do as much as you can; make it as simple and as strong as possible; do it as soon as you can, take nothing for granted, and address every single area of possible entry.

Q: Should I buy a hardwired system or a wireless system?

A: As a rule of thumb, always select a hardwired system over a wireless, unless the construction of your home doesn't allow reasonably easy installation (ie: basement ceilings finished with non - removeable tile or drywall over the majority of the basement ceiling area). On average, wired systems give less trouble than wireless over time. If you must opt for wireless, expect to pay substantially more for the same installation versus wired. Then, insist on only the very best quality equipment (made by Ademco, DSC,  Paradox , ITI, or Linear)

Q: Should I have my system monitored?  Won't the horn and the decals scare them away?

A: Generally it is a poor decision to skip the monitoring to save a few bucks monthly, and bet your home and possessions (and in extreme cases your personal safety) that you can fool thieves. For a more detailed discussion on this subject, go to the website section on monitoring copied into the article below. Remember too, that although you probably put the system in for purposes of burglary control, it can be made much more useful with other devices such as smoke detectors, heat and flood detectors, natural gas and CO detectors, all monitored through the central station receivers.

Detailed answer from website 

“I am often asked this question by customers considering whether or not they should skip the monitoring of their alarm system to save the monthly costs. They ask "Aren't the decals enough - after all, the kids don't know it's not monitored ?"
Before I answer that, let me first tell you that in this business, virtually the only money made by security companies is in the month to month revenue stream resulting from monitored accounts. As a result, the large mass marketers have targeted the winning of new monitored accounts to the exclusion of all else. All dealers make money from monitoring (some much more than others) but having said that, it also is a truth that monitoring is an integral and vital part of your security system.
Your security system is comprised of three parts, and like all things in security is only as good as the weakest link. 

The quality of equipment, system design, and its installation     
The quality of your dealer and his/her service                                       
The quality and response capabilities of your monitoring station  

If any should fail or disappear, your overall system security has been seriously jeopardized!! 
Should you choose not to monitor your system, you are betting your home and possessions that the decals alone will fool thieves, and the horn will chase them away (all for the sake of saving a few dollars per month !!!)  It doesn't very often work that way, in spite of what you might wish to think !!  To rely solely on an audible alarm is to be overly optimistic. Its much like throwing a drowning man a life preserver without a rope attached !!
In order to work well, a local system relies on a series of coincidences to occur simultaneously:

Neighbours within earshot must be home when the alarm occurs, they must be awake, or involved in a pastime quiet enough for the audible signal to be heard.

Neighbours must recognize the sound for what it is; they then must decide to take some action, rather than assuming it is a malfunction and choosing to ignore it.

Neighbours must be able to easily determine where the noise is coming from, and then make a decision to take the initiative and call the police.

Let me be very straightforward on this issue. Neighbours don't watch your home 24 hours a day. While neighbours invariably mean well, the simple truth is that they are often busy with their own problems and concerns. In these days of two-income families and "empty nests', it is not uncommon for suburban streets to be almost completely unoccupied for long stretches of time, and generally so during the 10:00 AM to 3:00 Pm high risk time of day. In addition, to ask your neighbours to risk their safety to investigate a possible break-in is not really fair to them, and generally should be avoided. Police living in your immediate neighbourhood have NO affect on the burglary rate on your street - they are victimized as often as anyone else. Internal or external horns are rarely heard in the dead of winter with windows closed and the TV blaring. There is a reason why insurance companies don't extend discounts to non-monitored systems. Their experience shows that local systems do not cut down the losses as a result of a fire or break-in, to anywhere near the degree achieved when a system is  professionally monitored. Rural customers often think that their remoteness makes police or third party response less effective due to the response time involved, when in fact, these are the people who may need it the most !!  In remote areas, thieves feel they can take the time to really clean out the home!
People running small business ventures out of their homes have additional needs to protect their computer and business equipment from theft. Monitoring fees in these cases are generally tax deductable, depending upon your situation.
So at the risk of perhaps seeming self serving, I give you this piece of advice:

If you don't want or can't afford the monthly costs to have your system professionally monitored, then don't spend the money to purchase a professional alarm system. 

When you shop for monitoring separately from your system itself (as you should), look for the following: 
1- A ULC rated monitoring station which guarantees a certain level of personnel training and adherence to strict standards.
2- Monthly rates for service not to exceed $20 a month (North American average is $24.40 per month) 
3- A contract with no long term commitment (month over month is much preferred), but certainly no longer than a year term, and a long term rate guarantee against a price rise. 
4- The assurance your alarm system is not "proprietary" in nature and can be monitored by any other station in the future.
Remember, the staff responding to your alarm are highly trained individuals with experience in what to do according to the situation they encounter. Their service to you can be worth every penny you pay for monitoring services in an emergency!   Just like insurance, you may resent paying for it up front, until you have a disaster and then it seems inexpensive at 100 times the price !!!!!

7-Auto Security

And now a few words about automobile security. The recent theft of my own van has highlighted to me the growing problem of auto theft and joy riding. The summer months, when school is out, seems to be the time of greatest risk. Here are a few of my personal thoughts and suggestions on this matter: 
•	While it might seem too obvious to mention, always lock your doors when parked, and NEVER leave the ignition running while you dash quickly into the local corner store.
•	Keep all valuables out of sight within the car. Something of value visible to a thief will tempt him to break in to your car, which may then lead to its being stolen as well. 
•	If you own two vehicles, block the “high risk” vehicle in your driveway from behind  with the other, or better yet, keep it out of sight inside the garage
•	If your vehicle is a high risk model (Dodge Shadow, Dodge or Plymouth Caravan, Jeep Cherokee or virtually any sport/utility vehicle), it is mandatory that you take extra precautions. As a minimum, I would consider use of the proper model of steering wheel “club”, especially when parked in high risk areas such as shopping centres, or (as in my case) even your own driveway. (Use a truck version of the club for vans not the shorter automobile version !!) Remember, minivans and expensive luxury cars are the choice of professional thieves as well, who sell these in the developing countries for three times their Canadian purchase price. Heavy security can go a long way to discouraging professionals as well as the kids (in spite of what some people say who should know better)
•	You may wish to consider installation of a vehicle alarm system, especially for high risk vehicles. Here the advice is the same as for homes - have it done professionally !!  The best systems activate the horn, and disable the starter. Personally, I now prefer the “passive” devices which (speaking from personal experience), you can’t forget to turn on, which require some form of “chip” to be inserted into a special socket in the dash before the car will start. (Several good ones I am personally familiar with are put out under the name of ProLock and Otomax). Be sure that whatever system you purchase comes with warning stickers and a blinking LED light to warn off potential thieves BEFORE they break the door locks. Also, when having any professional system installed, insist they put any master kill switch on a key lock in the dash, rather than simply hiding the toggle on/off switch somewhere in the dash area, where it can be easily discovered, and your system disabled. A lot of the newer, high-end professional systems are activated remotely via a transmitter carried with your keys.These systems come with a variety of additional options too numerous to mention, and vary in price from $199 to $600 installed. They are the option of choice for more expensive vehicles, leased vehicles,  or ones you plan to own for a few years. Once purchased, they can be removed and reinstalled in a newer vehicle for a reasonable fee. Many also carry a lifetime guarantee.
•	A simple ignition kill switch installed somewhere in the car by your mechanic will also  discourage theft when your  car is parked. One insurance company is currently offering insurance discounts when such an arrangement is installed in your car (approximate cost $70 if you can't install it yourself). Talk to your dealer on this one. Remember,all  thieves are discouraged when they meet unexpected, uncommon "custom" precautionary measures that they have not previously encountered. So be original !!!
	Retailers such as Walmart, and Price Club (to name only two), have perfectly usable non professional systems from $100 to $200, which are exceedingly easy to install. These contain "remote" units for activation and de-activation of the system. For anyone "handy", these are probably your best buy. They also have the added advantage of being easy to transfer between vehicles (Do-it-yourselfers should check with a mechanic to determine which  wires to route to the alarm, since it is possible to damage some modern electronic ignition modules with an incorrect hookup arrangement). Electronic alarms offer their best protection when used in areas where the alarm sounding is likely to solicit some direct response by  people (ie: your own driveway versus the parking lot of a large shopping plaza where a car alarm is largely ignored). So physical locking devices, even though they can be defeated, are still important because they increase the time and exposure involved in stealing the vehicle.
	
When you are asking yourself whether it’s worth doing the numerous things I have mentioned above, remember “there’s no free lunch”. Insurance companies are plagued with the growing and costly problem of home burglaries and auto theft, and these costs ultimately get passed along to everyone through higher insurance premiums. If we all collectively work together - insurance agents, police, individual homeowners, Neighbourhood Watch captains, and all those in the security and real estate business - we can make our communities a safer and more secure environment in which to live.

     			  Permission granted to reprint,with appropriate credits to 
			       R.H.Campbell of Home Security Metal Products