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Last changed 23 December 2008

This page is updated occasionally.
If you have any suggestions or corrections please let me know.
Email warrens@ns.sympatico.ca with your comments.

Electric generators are potentially lethal if not used properly. There is a very real risk of injuring or killing someone working on power lines with an improperly connected generator. Homeowners should know the correct way to use a backup generator for their home. This page will explain how a generator transfer panel is properly installed. It will alert you to potential dangers and provide some insight on the workings of electricity. You will understand better the reasoning behind the need of a transfer panel instead of a simple double male extension cord. It is not my intent to encourage homeowners to make wiring changes, but rather to provide information which will promote safe and proper generator use. This knowledge can be used while choosing an electrician to do the installation work, and clarify what is being done. You will be able to ask intelligent questions, and maybe even point out wiring errors which must be corrected.

While power outages are not common, there is never a good time to be without electricity. Food preparation is difficult, kids get crazy without their TV or video games, it's difficult to receive news reports and updates, and homes that use a well pump will be without water. Forget using your cordless phone or electric can opener. A long outage could cause food in your fridge and freezer to thaw. The basement could flood if you have a sump pump. In winter your house will quickly get cold, possibly freezing water lines. Homeowners should have an emergency kit containing a flashlight, battery-operated radio, food and water, and a back-up power system readily available at all times. With a backup generator my family is taken care of, no worries about getting cold or not being able to eat. Total parts cost is between about $200 and $600 (excluding generator), depending on reusing circuit breakers, how generator cord connects, parts on hand, and so on. I consider it a worthwhile investment for such peace of mind. My generator transfer panel supplies power to all essential items and there was even room left to add a few comfort items. Power outages are now optional. While others nearby don't have water to flush a toilet, we can watch satellite TV or even have a hot shower. My wife was skeptical about spending extra money on something which seemed unnecessary. After several extended power outages, some following major snow storms, she has learned to appreciate the benefit of having backup power and agrees it is something we would never want to be without.

After Hurricane Juan passed by Halifax, NS in September 2003, my home was the only one in the neighborhood with electricity. After power was restored I loaned the generator to a neighbor whose lines had been pulled off the house. Some people were without electricity for three weeks! Other extended outages such as the blackout of August 2003 throughout parts of Ontario and the north east USA, and the Quebec ice storm of 1998 demonstrated our inability to function without electric power. Each year hurricanes wreak havoc with power systems in the southern USA. Winter snow and ice storms, floods, traffic accidents, or even a raccoon climbing where it shouldn't can cause a loss of electrical power. Our dependance upon electricity is seldom realized until the lights go out.

Download advice from the Government of Canada on how to be prepared for emergencies. Be Prepared, Not Scared (248k .pdf file), Emergency preparedness begins with you.

Plan ahead. We built a new home in the spring of 2002. During construction I made sure the electrical installation was done in a manner that allowed easy installation of the generator transfer panel after we moved in. I spoke with the electrician and helped with pulling wires. I asked that the panel enclosure be made large enough to add the transfer panel to the left of the main panel. I also requested a 200 amp service instead of the standard 125 amp service. This ensures enough extra capacity to supply power to a garage, greenhouse, shed, welding equipment, or whatever else comes along later. Any circuits which were to be supplied backup power connected to the left side of the original panel, and the lines were left extra long, not trimmed to length. All lines are labelled with a black marker to indicate what circuits they feed. After moving in, connecting the transfer panel was relatively straightforward.

Give plenty of time to research electric generators, their use and safety before starting your installation. If you hire someone you will be more knowledgeful and understand what is being done. Allow time to decide what critical items must be powered, calculate load requirements, and determine proper generator sizing. Do not wait until the last minute during a major storm or outage to begin your research. Generators will quickly disappear during an outage and electrical supply stores will have their supplies quickly diminished.

This is a manually operated system. During an outage the generator must be moved outdoors, cord connected, and the engine started. After running for a few minutes to stabilize it can be turned on at transfer panel. To prevent surge current from tripping the generator circuit breakers I initially turn off all transfer panel breakers. Turn on the well pump, septic pump, furnace, fridge, and freezer in that order, allowing the generator to stabilize before turning on the next device. After that the remaining breakers can be turned on. The generator will easily handle individual surge currents, but not all at once. Don't forget a way to secure the generator against theft. I use a 6 foot cable lock to prevent the generator from being carried away.

During a power outage turn off all circuit breakers in the main electrical panel except for one. The single breaker left on can power a lamp or ceiling light which will signal that power has returned. Having the remainder of the breakers off will prevent potential damage from the surge which often occurs as power is restored. It will also prevent lights from coming on in the middle of the night. It may be difficult to know when lights on three (or four) way switches such as in a hallway are switched off. I've repositioned all switches in the house such that when everything points down the lights will be off. There is no more guessing about one switch up and the other down to have the lights off. This should be done regardless of whether you have backup power or not. While you are resetting clocks after an outage, don't forget the timer on the water softener.

It is a good idea to practice generator connection and reveiw safety with anyone who may have to use the system. Know how to check and refill the engine oil and refill the gas tank. Never refuel while the engine is running or hot. Know how to reset your well pump and check for tripped circuit breakers. My wife can start the generator and connect safely to the house in case I'm away from home. This happened shortly after we moved into the house. In early November a major storm caused a 16 hour outage. After no power for the night the house was getting cold, but after starting the generator in the morning things returned to normal. Our daughter was only 3 months old.

My transfer panel powers 12 circuits. Backup power is supplied for the well pump (240V), septic pump, furnace (heat and domestic hot water), fridge, freezer, bedroom and bathroom lights, kitchen and hall lights, kitchen plugs (2 circuits), microwave, and rec room. Not powered are circuits for the stove, dishwasher, bedroom plugs, living room lights and plugs, some basement lights and plugs, outdoor plugs, washer, dryer, air exchanger, and circuits in the garage. There is an outlet added in parallel with the furnace circuit to supply backup power to the home alarm system and keep its batteries charged. It is also a convenient place to plug in an emergency light for working in the garage or outside.

Here are measured currents in my generator panel. I used a Fluke clamp-on AC current probe and Fluke 189 peak reading multimeter to get the numbers.

Carbon monoxide is an odorless gas which is present in the exhaust fumes of all internal combustion engines. Read more about Carbon monoxide poisoning.
Quoting from the web site...
You can't see or smell carbon monoxide, but at high levels it can kill a person in minutes. Know the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning. At moderate levels, you or your family can get severe headaches, become dizzy, mentally confused, nauseated, or faint. You can even die if these levels persist for a long time. Low levels can cause shortness of breath, mild nausea, and mild headaches, and may have longer term effects on your health. Since many of these symptoms are similar to those of the flu, food poisoning, or other illnesses, you may not think that carbon monoxide poisoning could be the cause.
Always supply adequate ventilation when operating a generator. Never operate a generator indoors, near an open window or intake ducts for a air exchanger system. The carbon monoxide fumes could enter the home from outdoors. Your home should have a carbon monoxide detector. A fireplace or furnace can malfunction and fill a home with carbon monoxide as well.

Here is a pamphlet published by First Alert. Questions & Answers about Carbon Monoxide Poisoning, page 1 and page 2.

AC receptacle placement should be done after considering where the generator will be stored and operated. You won't want to have to pull the generator through snow from its storage location to where it will operate. You will not want to climb over snow banks to get access to the power connection for your house. It would not be suitable to have the outlet placed under the eave where water pours or where the ground is frequently wet. Do not operate the generator near flammable materials. The muffler gets very hot and could cause a fire if it is near paper, brush, or trees. Orient the generator so the exhaust gases are not blocked or obstructed. Do not point the muffler towards a door or window. It could melt vinyl siding or damage paint. If you require a long wire from the transfer panel to a suitable location ensure it is of adequate size to handle the power without excessive loss.
When you decide on suitable locations to store and operate the generator, consider digging a large hole to fill with concrete. Set a large eye bolt in the concrete and buy a long cable lock. Always keep the generator secured against theft. Its value increases considerably during an outage, and you won't want to lose your investment.

Safety first. Never connect a generator by using a double male cord plugged into the dryer or stove outlets. Do not connect an extension cord to a spare circuit breaker in your panel to plug into the generator. There is a possibility of backfeeding to the main grid, with potentially lethal results to people trying to repair the power lines. Even though you may know to turn off the main breaker, what will happen if someone else decides to connect the generator and leaves it on? These techniques are along the lines of playing Russian Roulette, except you are gambling with someone else's life. Do it right or don't do it at all. The best approach is to install a proper transfer panel to provide isolation. The panel will have two breakers through which power feeds. It provides a mechanical lockout system that prevents both breakers from being on at the same time. One breaker is fed from the main panel and normal power, the other connects to the generator. Alternately, extension cords can be used to plug in a freezer or fridge directly to the generator. The furnace can be rewired to use a standard wall outlet and connected the same way. Make sure to use cords which are in good condition and with proper current ratings.

I've visited people who have no respect for electricity, no knowledge of the danger of what they are doing, and have taken short cuts when connecting a generator to power their home. In some cases the work was even done by a licensed electrician, with simple instructions never to turn on both breakers at the same time. Of course the standard line, "If anyone asks, I had nothing to do with this" was always present. Here is an excellent example of what not to do. Forget to turn off a breaker and you can imagine the possibilities. I've emailed the person and he claims to have consulted with a licensed electrical contractor and was instructed on the wiring and installation of this solution! He also informed that the neutral wire was not needed as he was not powering any 240VAC appliances. This is exactly opposite to what is needed. Neutral is essential for all 120VAC appliances. He should have taken his own advice and hired someone competant (clearly not the same electrician). Why risk damage or injury when it should be done properly? Nice generator, but things rapidly go wrong. Installing a transfer panel and using a proper cord will eliminate most of these problems.

• No interlock between 30A breaker and main panel breaker. Possibility exists for backfeeding generator to main power grid, potentially electrocuting line workers, damaging the generator, or starting a fire.
• Exposed AC on end of cord if breaker turned on without generator connected. Potential electric shock hazard. This goes for use of any double male extension cord.
• Neutral should be connected in main panel. It carries return current for the two live lines (red and black).
• Ground used as neutral. The ground line is for safety only. Under normal use it should never have any current flow.
• The generator should be modified for this use. Neutral and ground lines should be isolated. This likely is a simple wiring change at the electrical outlet panel. The ground line is for safety purposes only and ensures the chassis and frame of the generator remains at ground potential to eliminate possibility of electric shock. If it were a stand alone generator at a work or camp site, ground and neutral lines should be connected in the generator, and its chassis connected to a proper ground rod.

Here is another dangerous installation. The home owner emailed asking if this was a safe manner in which to operate the generator. Yet another example of an irresponsible electrician giving bad advice.

Yet another example of someone who should have his internet access taken away. Some people either have no clue what they are doing or have absolutely no respect for safety. Imagine what would happen if someone forgot to remove the "dryer shorting plug" before restoring main power!

When will people learn? Here are yet more examples of what not to do. Don't get fleeced by fancy pictures or big words. Despite pushing safety, these people have no clues what they are doing!
Bad installations 4 and 5.

I received an email from someone who said his brother hooked up a floating neutral generator through a double male cord into a 3 wire welder outlet. There was no neutral connection supplied. He destroyed a microwave oven and other items before starting a fire. The email actually asked how he could safely connect through the welder outlet! My response was that it couldn't be done. It would have cost less money up front to purchase a proper panel than replace damaged items due to improper connection. He still wanted to know how to back feed the outlet regardless of the blatant safety problem and suggested ways to make it work. Some people just don't get it and will never understand. People's lives must have very little value where ever he lives.

Always ensure the neutral wire in the generator is connected through the 4 conductor extension cord. I received another email from an owner who connected only two live lines and ground to his main panel. The neutral in the generator was floating. Measured voltages in the house were as high as 180V on the live line, and resulted in considerable damage to equipment and even a small fire.

Proper generator neutral and ground bonding is important. Neutral and ground conductors must be bonded together in one location only. This is done at the main electrical service panel, where both lines connect to a common ground rod or plate.
The neutral conductor carries an equal and opposite current to what flows through the live line. The ground conductor is a safety line only. Under normal use it carries no current and ensures the chassis of equipment (or generator) remains at ground potential and safe to touch. If a frayed live line were to touch the chassis, the ground conductor would carry current safely to ground and open the circuit breaker, shutting off power very quickly.
GFCI - Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt outlet provides another type of protection, not usually available in a portable generator. It monitors both live and neutral currents, and will open the circuit if the two are not equal. This provides highly sensitive protection for outdoor or wet environments where live current could return via ground, but not have enough current to open the circuit breaker. For instance, this could happen if a person were to come in contact with the live conductor while standing in a puddle of mud. It would likely still hurt, but hopefully be of short enough duration to not cause any major damage or injury.
I've made a GFCI type extension cord which plugs into my generator or other non protected outlet. On the other end I've installed a GFCI outlet in an outdoor rated enclosure. Any items plugged into the extension cord are protected.
How Stuff Works also has a page on How a GFCI outlet works.

I do not recommend the Generac, ColemanPowermate, or GenTran style transfer panels. A GFCI type breaker can not have its circuit relocated through this style of generator panel. The only way to keep proper protection with these types is to relocate the GFCI breaker to a standard style panel with transfer capabilities such as the Siemens or Federal Pioneer shown on my web page, or to install a GFCI outlet to supply protection downline in the same manner as the GFCI breaker built into the panel. The same goes for ArcFault Protection type breakers, but I haven't seen an outlet style arc fault protection yet.

Otherwise, a GFCI circuit should operate no differently than any other circuit. The GFCI breaker or GFCI outlet monitors neutral and live conductor current to the protected outlets. Whether the electrical supply is generator or normal street supply this will not change. The source of power does not matter. My bathroom outlets are on the same circuit as the bedroom lights. Not an ideal wiring technique, but I have to live with it. The GFCI outlets work perfectly well while on generator. I've used a GFCI tester and they operate no differently than while on normal power.

I have seen problems with generators which use a bonded neutral and have GFCI outlets being connected to transfer panels. When the panel does not switch neutral, the GFCI breaker will trip immediately. This is due to return current flowing on the ground conductor. The reduced neutral current as compared to the live conductor will cause the breaker to open. The generator must be changed to supply a floating neutral, or the transfer panel rewired to switch neutral. Changing the generator in no way reduces its safety.

There are four possible ground / neutral bond and transfer panel configurations.

• Neutral bonded at generator, neutral switched at transfer panel. This is a correct configuration. Neutral for backup circuits will be isolated at the transfer panel and bonded within the generator. There will be no ground conductor current. This requires a three pole transfer switch.
• Neutral floating at generator, neutral not switched at transfer panel. This is a correct configuration. Neutral for the entire system is bonded at the main service panel. There will be no ground conductor current. Only live lines are switched with a two pole transfer switch.
• Neutral bonded at generator, neutral not switched at transfer panel. This seems to be the most common connection technique based on my research. Unfortunately it is not correct and not safe. Neutral will be connected to ground at the main panel and at the generator. Neutral current flow will flow along the ground conductor and through the generator chassis. This creates a potential shock hazard as the chassis becomes part of the current carrying circuit. The transfer panel is typically switches two poles only such as with the Generac, EmerGen, GenTran, ProTran, or others. The interlock kits which attach to an existing panel switch would fit this description also. The easiest way to fix the problem is to use a floating neutral generator, or make the required changes to the generator internal wiring.
• Neutral floating at generator, neutral switched at transfer panel. This is an unsafe configuration as the neutral conductor has no ground reference for safety. A wiring failure could put the entire chassis at line voltage creating a very dangerous situation. The neutral should be bonded within the generator or the transfer switch rewired to not switch the neutral conductor.

The generator and transfer panel should be considered as a system, not two independant items. They work together and must be compatible. Most generators I've seen have neutral and ground bonded, and many transfer panels do not switch neutral. This combination is not correct and could lead to a potentially dangerous situation. Make sure the person doing your installation checks to ensure compatibility with the neutral and ground bonding issue. If he does not consider this an issue worthy of the effort find another electrician.

How generator's neutral and ground wires are connected will determine how the panel must be wired. If the neutral is bonded to ground in the generator, you must switch neutral in the transfer panel in order to avoid a double bonded situation. If the panel is not capable of switching neutral, it must be isolated within the generator, possibly requiring rewiring. Check with someone qualified to determine which way your generator is wired - and if it can be changed.
My preference is to have neutral and ground isolated within the generator, and not switch neutral in the electrical panel. I have changed the wiring in my generator for this purpose. It greatly simplifies wiring in the panel, and eliminates the problem of split circuits sharing a common neutral.
A generator with floating neutral presents another potential hazard. It should not be used anywhere except when connected to a transfer panel. If it were used in a stand alone configuration such as at a campsite or with extension cords the neutral / ground bond should be reconnected and a ground rod provided. Some generator suppliers provide a 120V plug with neutral and ground lines connected. For stand alone use, this plug will reestablish the neutral bond at the generator. Many Chinese made generators (sample pics below) supply a 120V/240V selector switch and should not use this jumper plug.
If you decide to make such a plug, remember that neutral is the wide blade on the connector, and will usually use a white or chrome colored screw to tighten the wire. Click for picture.

Generac supplies a model 1276 transfer panel for use with their generators. I was very disappointed after looking through the installation instructions to learn it is not capable of switching neutral. The majority of their generators have neutral and ground bonded to the frame. As such the two should not be used together. Use of the panel will get your lights and other appliances working again, but safety will be jeopardized. Separately each item is perfectly safe, but should not be used in combination without changes to the generator. If you plan to use the 1276 transfer panel, ensure your generator has neutral floating. If using a Generac generator, you may have to make some minor changes inside the generator output panel to make the system work properly and safely. I have wiring instructions for the Generac 4000EXL, 5500XL, 7550EXL, Wheelhouse 5500 here.
Coleman-Powermate supplies a similar type transfer panel which does not switch neutral either. Their generators I've seen for sale lately have been labeled with floating neutral, making them safe to use with the panel. Do not use these generators in a stand alone configuration without reconnecting the neutral / ground bond however.
There are several other similar panels which do not switch neutral. Typically they have a three position switch and a push button circuit breaker for each circuit, and a flexible metal cable with numbered red and black wires. A quick check online found several brands including EmerGen Switchr models 6-5000 and 10-7500, GEN-TRAN, PRO-TRAN and others. Other panels may have two interlocking circuit breakers to select either generator or main power. If there are three sections being switched the panel is capable of switching neutral (see closeup of my Siemens transfer panel picture below). Otherwise the generator should have neutral floating from ground.

To determine if your generator uses a floating or bonded neutral perform this simple test. With the engine off, use an ohm meter between the chassis and neutral conductors in the outlet. If it indicates open circuit, the neutral is floating. A short circuit will indicate neutral bonded to ground. I don't recommend doing this to household circuits due to the possibility of exposed AC and damage to the meter.
Plug in an electrical tester as shown and start the engine. If it indicatess open neutral, live/neutral reversed, or live/ground reversed do not use the generator and have someone qualified check the wiring and make the necessary repairs. Use the tester throughout your house to ensure it is wired correctly. This sort of tester is often inaccurate for determining whether the neutral is bonded or not. Even with a floating neutral, the second light will often be on. I suspect this is due to very low leakage currents and a high impedance bulb in the tester.

The generator should also be grounded properly. A house should have a single ground point. Once the generator is plugged in through the twistlock plug, its chassis is connected to this ground. Driving another ground rod to connect the generator is incorrect when it is supplying backup power via a transfer panel. If you are using extension cords only where the appliances being powered are entirely isolated, or away from other sources of power such as while camping a ground rod should be used.

Schneider Electric has an Application Note on Standby Generator Panels which has very good information about neutral bonding. It should clear up any misunderstanding about the importance and reasoning behind the issue of the neutral and ground connection. Nova Scotia Power has a bulletin detailing inspection requirements, and information regarding neutral bonding. Please read both.

Can you splice wires inside a load center and not violate building codes?
Section 312.8 of the National Electrical Code permits splices and taps in enclosures if the splice or tap does not fill the wiring space to more than 75% of the cross-sectional area of the space. Unless you already have a large number of splices or taps in the load center, adding some more to install the transfer switch is not going to exceed the limits of the Code.

My former generator, a DeVilbiss GT5000 originally used a 3 wire 240VAC output which was not suitable for connection to a transfer panel. I added a 5 conductor twistlock outlet and isolated the neutral and ground lines. I've also changed my Generac 5500XL and a friend's Wheelhouse 5500 to have floating neutral. Details are here. There are instructions for floating neutral for TroyBilt and Porter Cable generators. A similar technique may be used for other type generators.

When power is restored it is sometimes accompanied by damage causing spikes or a surge. To protect equipment in my house I turn off all breakers on the main panel except for the living room lights. At worst I'll lose a pair of light bulbs. It provides an easy indication for when power is restored, something else a double male plug will not allow for.

Energy conservation is especially important while on backup power. It sometimes becomes a juggling act to decide what can be turned on or must be turned off. The toaster oven and microwave are fed from opposite lines on the generator, but when operating there is little extra capacity for other things. The generator does not have enough capacity to allow a shower while meals are being prepared. To further cut back on electricity consumption even when not on generator, I've added dimmer controls and fluorescent bulbs throughout the house. For homes which do not use a well pump and septic pump 5kW should be plenty of power. For my home, the 5500W generator is adequate, but little to spare.

Keeping the Heat In (3.3Mb pdf), Produced by Natural Resources Canada's Office of Energy Efficiency. (View from Natural Resources Canada page)
Are you looking for ways to reduce energy use around your home and on the road? Natural Resources Canada has produced a list of 350 energy and money saving tips entitled Energy and Money- Saving Tips (71 pages, 911kB .pdf)
From Nova Scotia Power - Top 10 hot tips to stay warm & reduce energy costs

Although portable generators must be used outdoors, they are not weather proof, nor designed to run in freezing temperatures. Rain or snow may cause problems with the electrical system, start rust, and shorten its life. Cold air could cause the carburetor to freeze and stall the engine. I plan to build a shelter to place over the generator. It will allow a flow of air for cooling, provide shelter from rain, and hold some engine heat to prevent freezing. When it is built I'll add a picture below. To get an idea of what to build, there is a picture on page 8 of the owner's manual (.pdf) for the Generac 5500XL.

Not all weatherproof inlets are entirely weatherproof. The type of inlet shown in the picture is only weatherproof when the cover is closed. Once you plug a cord in the cover must remain open. The electrical connections are no longer protected against the elements. Many homes have outdoor GFCI protected duplex outlets with similar covers.
This type inlet has a cover which will protect the electrical connections even with a cord attached. This is clearly the preferred approach if you must install an outdoors inlet. My preferred method if possible is to install the generator inlet indoors and feed the main cord under a garage door or through a window. You could even install a small trap door or dryer vent arrangement to bring the cord inside.

Owning a generator could be disappointing if it didn't work when needed. To avoid getting stuck with no electricity, test the generator monthly. This will identify any problems and allow repairs before an outage. Always use Stabyl in the gasoline so it does not turn stale and fowl the carburetor. Prolonged periods without use will sometimes cause the magnetic field in the generator to weaken. Attach a small load to the output to maintain the field while testing.
In my limited experience with small engines, perhaps the most important single item I've learned is the need of cleanliness. Clean oil, clean air, and clean fuel will help ensure a long and reliable life. Dirt in the carburetor can cause flooding, making the engine very difficult to start. I've had the carburetor leak badly after the needle valve was kept open by a small piece of rust. A blocked air filter will not allow a proper supply of air. Dirt which is allowed to enter through the carburetor can cause major engine damage, scoring the piston and rings, and result in loss of power, burning oil, and reduced performance. Like the engine in your car, the generator engine needs routine oil and filter changes. Check the oil level and add oil as needed every time before starting the engine. Check the engine manual for recommended change intervals, likely every 25 or 50 hours of operation. This is a good time to check the fuel and air filters and replace if necessary. Paper type oil or fuel filters should be replaced at least yearly. If there is no filter in the fuel line, one should be installed. Electronic cleaning spray works very well for degreasing parts and leaves no residue behind. I use it regularly for cleaning out carburetors and making sure all mating surfaces are clean.

If the engine is working fine, but there is no output voltage try this trick. It may work on standard alternator type generators, but not on those which use an inverter. It worked for me in the past, but try at your own risk. First check to ensure that all circuit breakers and fuses are ok. Shut off the engine and remove any cords from the generator. Plug in a cord with bare wires on the other end to one of the 120VAC outlets. Connect one end of the cord to a car battery. Very quickly touch the other wire to the other battery terminal. Do not leave it there longer than to create a few sparks or you may destroy the windings. If the residual magnetism in the alternator had weakened, this may be enough to get it started again.

This tip comes from the Briggs & Stratton Customer Education Department via Precise Engine Repair web site.
As an alternative to flashing a rotor winding with a battery applied to the brushes, an electric drill may be used. Follow these steps to flash the generator:

Use caution not to get your hand or other materials caught in the chuck. As soon as the field is excited, the generator will produce power and the drill will turn on.

The reason this works is because the electric motor in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back through the trigger, cord and into the generators receptacle. From there it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor winding the rotor has been flashed.

If flashing the field does not make the generator work, you may have additional problems, besides a lack of magnetism in the rotor. Further testing will be needed. Hopefully, this will give a simple way to field flash your generator if needed - Bruce Perrault

Substitutes for Generac part number 70185 oil filters... NAPA Gold 1394, Hastings LF410, Purolator L14476, WIX 51394, Amsoil EAO09, Mopar FE308. It is the same filter as used on a Toyota Corolla or Echo. Any other substitute filters? Let me know! I personally avoid Fram oil filters, and never use any type of oil additive or filters with added teflon. Note that Quaker State and filters sold under the Canadian Tire brand appear to be relabelled Fram filters. Read these engine oil filter studies and decide for yourself. Engine Oil Filter Study. When you change oil on your generator, don't forget to start the engine to ensure oil flows through and fills the filter. Recheck and top up the level.

The Generac tune up kit for 11, 13, and 15HP engines includes a new Champion RC12YC spark plug.
RC12YC Champion spark plug replaces Autolite 3924, NGK BCPR6ES, Briggs 491055s, Kohler 12-132-02

Here are two links which may assist with troubleshooting and repair of your small engine.
Repairing small engines and Small engine advisor
Generac Service and Repair Manual for Large Frame GN engines.

Depending on the amount of expected use, type of engine should be considered. Overhead valve engines will run quieter and last longer than side valve engines. Here is some information, originally from Generac, which explains some of the differences. While adequate for occasional emergency use, most inexpensive generators use side valve engines.
Some common generator and electrical definitions.
Other Generac information is available here.

I purchased the transfer panel at Home Depot. There are two versions available, one rated at 30A and the other 60A. Under regular power, 30A is inadequate for the full load in the panel. The price difference in the two panels is only $10, so I chose the 60A model. Depending on the original electrical panel is in your house, circuit breakers may be reused. Total cost for my panel with all new breakers was about $350. The power cord, twistlock connectors, and other items came to another $150. An outdoor weatherproof connector will cost about $80 and you will have to add the cost of wire to go to the transfer panel. With proper shopping or using parts on hand, this cost should be less than $600.

Here is a brief list of things I check whenever opening an electrical panel.

Last resort, shut off the engine or buy a quiet generator.

I wouldn't recommend anything less than a 5kW generator. Make sure it uses a 4 conductor 120V/240V twistlock outlet.

Here is information on NEMA plugs and nomenclature.

Consumers Reports magazine published an article on generator selection in November 2003. Email me for a copy.

American Red Cross has a short document titled Fact Sheet: Using a Generator when Disaster Strikes.

I've put together a comments and FAQ page based upon email which has been received.

Here are extra articles regarding generator safety.
Allegheny Power Generator Safety for the Home
US Consumer Product Safety Commission Alert: Portable Generator Hazards
San Diego Gas & Electric Facts You Should Know About Portable Electric Generators
New York State Electrci & Gas Emergency Generator Safety - Key Points of Generator Safety

I'm experimenting with wind power to supplement household energy use. Read about progress of my wind turbine installation.

I'm available to install a transfer panel or to assist with other projects for anyone in the greater Halifax area.

I have 20A and 30A twistlock connectors available for a considerable savings compared to hardware store prices.
These are type L14-20 and L14-30, new and unused in original packaging, ideal for generator use.

Email me with any questions.

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Here are pictures of my installation. Click thumbnails to enlarge.

I use a Generac 5500XL generator. Neutral and ground conductors have been isolated.

To the right is the main 200A panel, left is the 60A generator transfer panel. Above the generator panel are phone lines, to the left are lines for satellite TV. Instructions for connecting generator, contact and account information for Nova Scotia Power are on the paper on the left door. I have added sheets to record operating time for the generator and snowblower. This will assist with regular oil changes and other maintenance.
The small box below the transfer panel is part of my wind generator project. It is another transfer switch which automatically selects battery power or normal power for certain house circuits.

Similar picture from a different angle. Large white wire between panels is 6/3 which carries power to the transfer panel.

Closeup of the 60A Seimens transfer panel. Two large breakers at top are interlocked such that only one can be turned on at a time. This is the main safety feature of a generator transfer panel. It prevents generator power from backfeeding to the main panel and on to the street.
The biggest problem I have with this panel is how the circuits are split 8 on one live line and 4 on the other when using all 12 available spaces. This makes it difficult to balance generator load. Ideally there would be an equal split, 6 circuits per live line. An internal picture of the panel shows how the bus is configured.

Extension cord 6/3 wire with 30A twistlock plugs. Visible on left side of panel enclosure is 30A twistlock plug for generator to connect to system.

For Generac owners, finding the exact Generac replacement filter can sometimes be difficult, and their filters are rather expensive. A regular automotive oil filter can be installed for about half the price. My generator had a Hastings LF410. According to Purolator, its equivalent is a L14476. I've also cross referenced the original Generac filter to the same Purolator filter. Visit Purolator's web site. Click on Vehicle Applications, then Click on Where Used Guide. Under part number, enter L14476 and click Continue. You will be given a long list of vehicles which use the same filter as the standard Generac filter. Go to wherever oil filters are sold and ask for one for that type vehicle. You can likely get an oversize filter but will have to match it up on your own. Often there are several filters which have the same diameter, mounting threads, and so on. The only difference is the length of the filter. Having a larger filter will provide extra filter surface area, slightly better flow through the filter, and the ability to remove more dirt before the bypass valve opens.

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Here is an installation I'm working on. I'll have a step by step procedure including pictures once completed. It will be configured as a two pole transfer switch with neutral not switched. The generator neutral is floating. The panel has been prewired so the visit for installation will be greatly simplified.

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Pictures of transfer panel with older fuse panel. Cole Harbour, NS. 7 September 2005
Left picture shows inside of Siemens transfer panel showing premade Generac harness. Wiring is complete and front cover is ready to install. Neutral is not switched in this installation. Generator power enters from left side of panel, main power enters from right.
Right picture is completed installation. Original panel uses fuses. The only circuits not on generator backup are the electric stove and the clothes dryer.

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Pictures of Dave King's Siemens 60A transfer panel. Powassan, Ontario.

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Pictures of Federal Pioneer 60A Stab-lok transfer panel at Gite Montagne Nirvana B&B , St Faustin-Lac Carré, Quebec.
The panel is available at Home Depot, part number 047569324833, price $204.50.

I think it prudent to warn people about cheap knockoffs coming from China. They appear to be cloning engines used by Honda, Briggs & Stratton and other reputable manufacturers. While the prices seem attractive, especially when you factor in electric start and wheel kit included, you should be very wary about purchasing this equipment. One person emailed me asking about changing the outlet to a 4 conductor twistlock from the 3 conductor originally supplied. After going inside, he found the quality of the connectors very low. The wiring was confusing and difficult to change without fully rewiring the electrical panel. He also learned that the generator was not CSA or UL approved. This generator was purchased via eBay. I've found electrical issues which should be addressed. I don't like these generators and have not seen a single redeeming feature with any of them.
Problems which should be addressed immediately are related to circuit breakers. In one model with a 120/240V twistlock outlet, only one breaker is supplied for 240VAC. It is installed one live line, leaving the other live line without any form of protection. This may not be as much a problem for a device operating at 240V only, but could be a serious safety issue while operating something at 120V from the 4 conductor twistlock outlet. A proper breaker must be installed in the second line to protect the generator from overload. While operating at 120V only, the breaker rating is too high to protect the outlet. The outlet must be changed for a higher current rating, or the breaker current rating lowered. The 120/240V output switch does not properly disable the unused outlet. Devices plugged in may suffer damage. One of the neutral lines becomes live when the switch is changed.
Surprisingly, even in a generator which is claimed to be CSA approved (sold as King Canada model KCG-3000G) there are several problems which also got past electrical inspectors. The distributor claims it uses a bonded neutral, but it appears neutral is actually floating. While operating at 120VAC, the coils are in parallel and the breakers wired in the neutral conductors, not the live conductors. On the 4 conductor outlet, the Y connection is still connected to the live line. X and neutral are disconnected. While operating at 240VAC, the coils are in series, with the center connection forming the neutral conductor. The breaker for one generator output coil is in the neutral conductor, not the live conductor. The live conductor on the 120VAC outlet is still powered from one output coil, but the neutral is disconnected.
My suggestion to one owner was to remove the dual voltage switch entirely. Rewire the breakers in the live lines feeding the 4 conductor twistlock outlet. Split the 120V duplex outlet and feed from the neutral and live lines from the twistlock outlet. Neutral can be left floating or bonded to ground as required. His decision was to return the generator for a refund. Wise move...
Due to the manner in which the 120V/240V selector is wired in these generators, I would recommend against using a jumper plug to supply a neutral to ground bonding connection.
Another owner pointed out that some of these generators use twistlock outlets which are under rated. A 20A L14-20 type outlet should be ok for up to a 5000 watt generator. Make sure the outlet is protected by 20A breakers. Anything larger (up to 7200 watts) should use a 30A L14-30 type outlet, and have 30A breakers inline.
Someone emailed me about lights being excessively bright in his refrigerator while operating on his new Chinese made generator. He measured about 170 volts at the outlet and only about 70 on another. This pointed directly to a neutral wiring problem in the system. Upon inspection of the L14-30 outlet within the generator it was found that the neutral wire was missing entirely. He placed a jumper from the 120V duplex outlet neutral connector to the L14-30 and the problem was solved. Before powering your house from the generator ensure this wire is in place! Start the engine and measure voltage from the neutral terminal to each of the line terminals. It should measure about 120V on each live line.
I'm trying to get information on other models in their lineup.
Check file number 223771 at CSA International web site. Here is the CSA Class Description, and Certification Record.
The generators are made by Fuzhou Launtop in China. There are many hits for the company from a Yahoo web search.
I have no long term reliability or quality knowledge about the engine. You may save a few dollars up front, but be prepared to receive a questionable quality product with little after sale support as a result. If you are spending money to ensure reliable long term backup power you may wish to reconsider your purchase and keep looking. I'm admittedly biased against anything which says MADE IN CHINA. I view it as a label warning of low quality, poor reliability, and lack of any real value. Like anything else, you get what you pay for. If you want a cheap generator and lowest price is the only criteria, China may have a deal for you after all. Many models of Chinese generators can be found at dealers throughout the USA, Canada, and eBay. Do your research to ensure you get what you expect.

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Princess Auto is recalling generators sold in November and December 2005. These are yet another version of the Chinese made generators.
Here is the information for the 6500W units and the information for the 2400W units.
A CSR from Princess Auto said owners could get the work done on their own and submit the repair bill to Princess Auto to be reimbursed.
You may want to phone first to make arrangements.

It appears both generators use a floating neutral, thus masking the problem until the generator is actually connected to a load. The line and neutral wires have been reversed on the 120VAC outlet. On the 6500W generator one of the live lines connects to chassis ground and must be isolated.
As is typical in many portable generators, there is no standard color code used. White is used as a live line and blue is neutral.
Anyone in the Halifax area with one of these? I'd like to take a closer look at the insides. The pictures supplied by Princess Auto still don't look quite right, especially for the 6500W generator. Without tracing things through there's no way to tell what else may need to be corrected. I'd like to draw a wiring diagram, take a few pictures, and ensure the generator is properly wired and safe to use.
A quick and easy check is to use a 3-light tester to plug into one of the 120VAC outlets. If it indicates reversed neutral and live lines you should not use the generator until corrections have been made. This is a good test for any generator.

Princess Auto is selling a generator which uses a Honda engine, but has a label stating MADE IN CANADA. I'm not aware of Honda manufacturing small engines in Canada. Again, further research is warranted before purchase.

From Princess Auto web site.

PRINCESS AUTO IS VOLUNTARILY RECALLING 2400 Watt and 6500 Watt Generators purchased in the months of November and December 2005

THE GENERATORS INVOLVED ARE UNDER THE FOLLOWING NUMBERS:
8088817 2400watt Model DF2500H
8088825 2400watt Model DFY2500H
8088833 6500watt Model DF6500H
8088841 6500watt Model DFY6500H
These units will need to be taken to your nearest PRINCESS AUTO location IMMEDIATELY.

These units require minor re-wiring.
A certified electrician will inspect and re-wire.
A full refund will be honored to you the customer if you desire.
Princess Auto apologizes for any inconvenience this may cause.

To locate the Princess Auto store nearest you, or for more information, call Princess Auto Ltd. toll free at (800) 665-8685 between 7 a.m. and 6:30 p.m. CT Monday through Friday, Saturday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. or go to Princess Auto Ltd.'s web site at www.princessauto.com.

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Useful links

Nova Scotia Power outage information.
Nova Scotia Power has safety information for use of generator, and a bulletin detailing inspection requirements, and information regarding neutral bonding.

Ontario Electrical Safety Code - Info Sheet Portable generator connection example.

Ever wonder about electrical power consumption within your home? I use a Kill A Watt power monitor which will display everything from current requirements to kilowatt hour consumption for whatever is plugged into it. It is useful to monitor generator frequency and voltage output. It will not work with a modified sine wave inverter. Cost was about $40 Canadian.
Here is more information.
Kill A Watt Electric Usage Monitor
Inside the Kill A Watt

GenerLink is a five-inch device that is installed behind your electric meter by your local utility. When you connect a portable generator and start it up, GenerLink automatically disconnects your house from the electric utility grid preventing the possibility of back feed which can damage equipment and harm utility personnel.
This device switches both live lines, leaving the neutral/ground conductor in place. This will require a generator with a floating neutral conductor, not bonded to ground. As GenerLink powers the entire house you must be careful not to overload the generator. There will be no indication within the house for when power is restored. It uses a type L14-30R input connector, maximum power capacity is 7200 watts. The price tag is relatively high. Depending on your application it may be more economical to install a secondary transfer panel to power selected circuits only. Further research and pricing for your particular installation is recommended. Check with your local power utility for approval of GenerLink before purchasing.

Federal Pioneer (also Federal Pacific) manufactures transfer panels.
For new construction or full panel replacement, consider a Service Entrance Transfer Panel.
As an addition to an existing system, an auxiliary transfer panel may be more suitable.
Before purchasing one of these panels please read the following warning.
Further research is warranted, as the manufacturer may have resolved the potential problems.
FPE Panels - Hazard or Hype? (.pdf)

Schneider Electric also sells a Generator interlock kit. If you have a Square D type panel, this could provide an inexpensive safety interlock and turn your existing main electrical panel into a full home transfer panel. Note that this will switch both live lines only and leave neutral bonded in the panel. As such, the generator neutral should be floating and not bonded to its chassis. The problem I have with this technique is the safety interlock is defeated if the panel cover is removed.

Square D Generator interlock kit, and Manual transfer equipment kits.
Same problem, remove the panel cover, and the safety interlock goes with it. Easy to defeat the safety feature.

Generator InterLock Technologies produces interlock kits for many different type main panels. Find your panel and order the matching kit to supply backup power for your entire house. Generator neutral should be floating, not bonded to chassis with this type installation. Again, looks like a simple system to defeat by removing the front panel cover.

The Electrician's Handbook from Nexans Canada Inc. (1828kb PDF)

NoOutage.Com offers several backup configuration ideas for installing a generator transfer panel. Mine would be similar to B2 with the cord running under the garage door, but with a larger panel such as in B7. Check their entire site for ideas. They also sell full size transfer panels.

Canadian Tire pamphlet (2MB .jpg files)
Six steps to back up generator power, Generators- Wattage chart

Generator FAQ by Survivalistbooks.com

How Stuff works describes how emergency power systems work.

Generac Using your Generator for Standby Power

Official Web Site for Briggs & Stratton Home Generator Systems

US Carburetion Kit Center sells propane conversion kits for small gasoline engines. I've opted to leave my engine fueled by gasoline only.

Mayberry Sales and Service has a good page for generator selection and other useful generator information. Check in particular the sections on transfer panels. It explains the how and why of using one.

Dakota Electric safety first and Guide to Installing a Standby Backup Generator (pdf).

Gulf Coast News site an article titled "Backup power for your Home". There are tips for generator selection, power management, and safety.

warrens@ns.sympatico.ca.
Let me know your comments or suggestions for my site. If you have questions or ideas please email me.
I'd like to receive pictures of other installations to add. Get in touch if you'd like your generator shown.

Hopefully this page will be of some assistance. Feel free to link here, and forward the site to friends or others who may be interested. Other than as noted all content is original. Please give proper credit if you borrow from here. I'd like to receive feedback to let me know what you've done.

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Thanks

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Warren

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