KEYLESS ENTRY AND REMOTE START INSTALLATION

This page highlights the steps i took to install a keyless entry system and remote starter in my 87 928..NOT EQUIPPED WITH A FACTORY ALARM......but i do have an EZK kill switch : ). The device is from COMMANDO ALARMS, Model EZ-1200. I did this installation in conjuction with my carpet replacement which made the routing of the wires and the module MUCH easier. My car was basically gutted and I chose to place the receiver module underneath my drivers seat. YOU may want to pick somewhere else?? Another good spot would be the passenger side trunk release cover. Under there there should be some room, but only if you dont have a factory AMP. ...you will have to decide. There maybe room behind the dead pedal cover? OR..above and behind one of the parcel trays.This page above all highlights the WIRING aspect of the intstallation.

The Module comes with quite abit of wiring and looks a daunting task at first, it was for me, but now that i have paved the way so to speak, you all should have a much easier time with it. !! Fortunatly for me my car doesnt have a factory alarm (trust me, you break in you wont get very far in it : ) ) thus some of the wiring on the module didnt apply to me and i cut and capped the wires.

#1 DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!

I think i made step 1 clear enough!

Below is a run down of the wiring involved and where to connect it on the car. It follows the installation manual's sequence. Rember to follow the instructions in the manual as well, this is just a guide.

10 PIN CONNECTOR COLOR CODES						WHERE I TAPPED INTO ON THE CAR
WHITE						I tapped into the Parking lights at the main fuse panel
RED (+) 12v constant supply for control module						I tapped into one of the main leads i ran from the battery for the 6 pin connector (see below)
BROWN						DIDNT USE, i dont have the factory alarm
BLACK Chassis Grounds						I drilled and placed a ground screw in the sheet metal below my seat
ORANGE						DID NOT USE
GRAY						DID NOT USE
GREEN: Tach/Spark pick up						I wrapped wire appx 8 times around the #1 plug wire and joined to the green wire and ran it along the hood, in the narrow gap between the fender and winshield, across the front door frame and up under the front parcel tray.
BLUE: Hood pin switch						This is optional, i chose not to hook it up. Cut the wire and cap it if you choose.
VIOLET						DID NOT USE
YELLOW (+) side of brake siwtch						Splice into the brake wire at the connector on the brake switch, found just above the brake pedal (be sure you have your LAMPS DIAGNOSTICS MODULE HOOKED UP...i didnt when i had the front pax parcel tray out and it took a lot of head scratching to figure out why i couldnt get 12v at the brake swicth)

SIX SINGLE PIN CONNECTOR COLOR CODES
PURPLE						Connect this to the YELLOW wire from the igniton harness, this is the power to the starter relay. Powered only in the START postion
ORANGE						Connect this to the RED/BLACK wire from the igntion harness. Powered only in the RUN position
YELLOW						Connect this to the BLACK wire from the igntion harneess. Powered in RUN and START postion
BROWN						Connect this to the BLACK/YELLOW wire from the igntion harness.
RED (+) 12 volts 30amp fused						Connect this to the battery or a constant 12v source. I went straight from the battery
RED (+) 12 volts 30 amp fused						Connect this to the battery or a constant 12v source. Again, i went from the battery. NOTE: on one of these red leads tap power for the RED lead on the 10 pin connector

SECONDARY CONNECTORS
Receiver/Antenna						I placed the antenna in the upper front corner of the rear driver side quarterglass and ran the lead on the inside of the panel ( i had them out anyway)
Door/Lock GREEN						i tapped in the connector to the central locking module under/behind the center console area and used the GREEN WIRE . The module is just to the drivers side of the radio
Door/unlock YELLOW						see above..but used the YELLOW wire
Trunk-GREEN/BLACK						DID NOT USE
Vacuum Yellow						DID NOT USE
Disarm RED						DID NOT USE
STATUS LED						Drilled hole in bottom of right side defroster channel and mounted in the left most defroster vent by wrapping LED with black foam for a tight fit. No gule and thus can be removed anytime.
PROGRAM SWITCH						So far i have just left it under the seat with the module

If you connect the wires above to the locations specified,you shouldnt have ANY problems! Its just a matter of personal choice of how you actually go about the installation and where you install the device. To acces the igntion wires, i remove the cover underneath the POD and reached up and unhooked the wiring harness from the back of the igntion colunm. Its a tight fit and very awkward( and i had my seats out!!) but you can place your "T-Splices" on the wires there for the remote start. (see pictures). TIP: have a continuity tester handy to check the conections after you make them as sometimes you may not get a good splice on the wires!

Below are some pictures to help reference the work....

instead of splicing into the lock wires, i took apart the connector at the module and soldered the wires there. This made for a nice neat durable installation. The center console is removed. You should be ble to acces this part by just removing the driver side panel.

looking UP..under the dash at the back of the ignition harness where i tapped into for the remote starter. The blue objects are the "T-splices" i have installed. They allow you to make the connections quite easily..

I will say now that im done with it, this has been one of the most satisfying upgrades Ive done to the car. It cost all but a 100 bucks. 60 something for the system and the rest in wiring and misc supplies. I learned a HECK of a lot from the electical schematics i referenced (thanks Jeff!) and best of all, one click of the button, my lights flash and the car locks or unlocks. With another push of a button the cars Starts itself!

PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THIS FOR AN 1987 CAR WITHOUT A FACTORY ALARM....other cars may have different wiring!!!!

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