This write-up is based on my own installation of a Huntely Racing Stage 2 Ball Bearing Turbo in my 1986 944 turbo. I am not a professional mechanic, nor do I have any affiliation with Huntley Racing. If you see errors or suggestions for improvements in this write-up, please send me a note at tmgee@iname.com. The underlined text in italics comes from the factory workshop manual. Needless to say, there is a lot more to know than the 15 simple-sounding steps listed in the factory manual. I read everything I could get my hands on before doing this job, and was surprised to find out how many "little" steps are not discussed anywhere. This article is intended to fix that.

Before starting the job, I bought several boxes of zip-lock freezer bags--the kind with the white panel on them for marking their contents. This turned out to be a life-saver. There are many small parts and fasteners to remove, and having each marked in its own bag made re-assembly a mystery-free process. I also bought a Liquid Paper pen, which I used to mark disconnected hoses and vacuum lines.

Before tackling any of the factory steps, you should first jack up the car. I find the easiest way to do this is to back the car up onto ramps. With the rear up like this, a regular floor jack can slide under the center of the rocker panel (under the diamond-shapes indent on the rocker panel) to jack up the car. I use a jack pad sold by Automotion which is made to fit in the 944 jack-point recess, to avoid damaging the floor-pan. Once one side is up nice and high, I put a jack stand under the front unit-frame rail, and then do the same on the other side. (I use 2 back-up jack stands to be extra careful.) Once the car is up, I interpret the factory procedures as follows:

1.  Disconnect ground lead on battery. Use a 13mm open or box end wrench on the negative battery terminal and get it out of the way so it will not come back in contact with the terminal. If you have a hard time with this step, turn back now and find a nice friendly mechanic to install your turbo.

2.  Unscrew air cleaner upper section and remove together with air intake and filter cartridge. The factory manual assumes you have the stock air-box in place. I had a Stage 3 Huntley MAF installed, so there is really nothing to do for this step until later.

3.  Remove both charging air guide pipes. First, remove the banjo bolt on the left-side intercooler pipe using a 17mm box end wrench. I stored the banjo bolt and its two copper washers in the pipe once the fitting is removed. Once the banjo bolt is removed, the left intercooler pipe can be removed by loosing the two clamps holding it in place, using a straight slot screwdriver. The right intercooler pipe has two hose connections that need to be disconnected before removal. One hose comes directly off the bypass air control valve, and the other connects to thick black rubber hose that stick out from under the front of the intake manifold. Remove both of these hoses by loosening their hose clamps with a straight slot screwdriver, then loosen the right intercooler pipe itself by using a straight slot screwdriver on its hose clamps.

4.  Disconnect fuel feed and return lines, and set aside. Detach vacuum hoses from pressure regulator and pressure damper. Disconnect cable on cruise control motor.

Fuel Pressure Regulator and Damper. The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) sits on the rear of the fuel rail, closer to the firewall. The fuel pressure damper sits on the front of the fuel rail, closer to the radiator. The hose going to the FPR is disconnected using a straight slot screwdriver on its fuel hose clamp. Loosen the clamp as far as it will go and twist the hose a bit to pull it off the FPR. The hose going to the fuel pressure damper is disconnected using a 19mm open end (or flare nut) wrench, and counter-held with a 24mm open end wrench. Hold the 24mm nut in place firmly, and loosen the 19mm nut in counter clockwise (normal) direction. The vacuum lines going to the FPR and damper should just pull straight out. (Tip: there is a third fuel line connection on the front left-side of the fuel rail. This hose runs back to the damper, and does not need to be removed in order to pull the fuel rail.)

Cruise Control. The cruise control unit is located just in front of the battery compartment. The cruise control cable can be detached from the unit without tools by pulling back (toward the fender) the mental clip encasing the rubber clasp. With the clip pulled back, the rubber clasp can be pulled off the cruise control actuator. One the cable is disconnected, use a 13mm wrench to loosen the lock nuts holding the cable in its bracket (after marking the location of the lock nuts for adjustment-free re-assembly). Then remove the cruise control hold-down strap on top of the intake manifold using a 10mm wrench. (Re-Assembly Tip: When reinstalling the cruise control cable, take note of how tension on the cable interacts with the throttle cable. If the cruise control line has too much tension, it will cause the throttle to open slightly causing a fast idle.)

5.  Pull off spark plug connectors. Unscrew distributor cap. Detach fuel collection pipe with fuel injectors and ignition leads on intake air distributor and camshaft housing. Okay, so the factory manual was not written in English originally. Here’s what I did here. First, pull the plug wires off the spark plugs, leaving the other ends connected to the distributor cap. Pull the coil (center) wire only off the distributor cap. I had a very long straight slot screwdriver that I heated up and put a 45 degree bend in about 4 inches from the tip. I use this screwdriver to release the lower distributor cap screw. At any rate, pull the distributor cap off using whatever method that works for you. The plug wires are clipped to the fuel rail in several places. Leave those clips as they are. When you pull the fuel rail, you can pull the wires at the same time. Be sure to mark the wires to match their cylinders just in case.

6.  Carefully remove fuel collection pipe with fuel injectors and ignition leads from intake air distributor, and set aside. To pull the fuel rail, you need to remove the four 10mm bolts holding it down. I found that these were all accessible with a medium extension 10mm socket. Once those are out you should be able to pry gently to get the fuel rail off. The only thing holding it in at this point is the injectors which are plugged into their holes. So pry gently and the rail should come up. Once it is up, remove the plastic cover that runs the length of the rail. Do this by unfastening the three button-latch plastic connectors under the cover. Once it is off, disconnect the injector electrical plugs. Do this by unseating the wire clip that runs around the base of the connectors using a small awl or screwdriver. Once they are off, set the fuel rail aside. You may need to de-tangle the banjo bolt line and other wires/hoses, but the rail should be free to come out of the car once the four bolts are out, the fuel hoses are off, the injectors are loosened from their holes, and the electrical connectors are out. (Re-Assembly Tip: This is the best time to get new fuel injector o-rings. Before reinstalling the injectors coat the o-rings very lightly with automatic transmission fluid. Reinstalling the electrical connectors on the injectors is easier than removal. If you seat the retaining clip fully in its groove on the connectors, you can just snap the connectors onto the injectors with fiddling with the clips.)

7.  Disconnect throttle operating cable. Loosen and remove vacuum hoses from intake air distributor.

Throttle Cable. The throttle cable comes off without any tools. Just pull on the throttle cam a bit to get some slack and then pull the throttle cable’s plug out of the throttle cam. You will also need to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the throttle cable retaining bracket to the intake manifold. (Tip: Don’t be fooled into removing the throttle return spring. It is all part of the throttle body and will come out as a unit with the manifold.)

Vacuum Hoses. There are four vacuum fittings on the intake manifold assembly, three visible and one hidden under the throttle body. There are two black rubber hoses running to fittings between runners 1 and 2 and between runners 2 and 3. Remove these with a straight slot screwdriver. Between runners 3 and 4 is a fitting with two banjo nuts. Remove the 10mm banjo bolt along with its three washers to free the two vacuum lines, then store the bolt and its washers in the hole it came out of. Finally, there is a small black plastic vacuum line that runs to a rubber hose just under the throttle body. If you can pull this hose now, you should. Otherwise, you will need to remove it once you loosen the intake manifold and better access to the under side of the throttle body.

8.  Remove intake air distributor with throttle housing, and cover intake ports leading to intake valves. First, there are two 5mm allen head bolts on the top and at the rear of the intake manifold. These bolt into a support bracket under the intake, so they need to be removed. There is also a 13mm bolt holding another support bracket at the front of the manifold. This bolt is vertical, with its head facing the radiator. You may need to remove the air hose running in front of it to get at it, but you will need to loosen that bolt to get the intake manifold off. Use a long extension and a 13mm socket once the path is clear. The intake sits on that bolt with a blade or fork style end, so that 13mm bolt does not need to be removed, just loosened. There is also a 10mm bolt holding an electrical bracket at the rear of the intake manifold, just in front and below the center of the windshield. Finally, you may, but do not need to, remove the 10mm bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the intake. Many people report problems getting to this bolt. I used a universal socket on a long extension to get at it, and had relatively little problems with it. If you leave that bolt in place, the whole dipstick tube will come out with the intake. This is a bit cumbersome, but perhaps easier than trying to get at that bolt. Before pulling the intake manifold, I ran a Shop-Vac with a brush attachment around the mating surface of the intake, to keep debris from falling into the intake ports. Once the area is clean, remove the eight 6mm allen head bolts holding the intake runners to the head. At this point, the intake manifold should pull straight up and out of the engine bay. It is not heavy at all. Cover the intake ports with a towel.

Re-Assembly Tip: Be sure to remove and replace the four intake runner gaskets. I used a straight razor blade to peel the gaskets off the manifold. Be sure to align the new gaskets correctly so that the indent for the injector is properly aligned for each port. For me, this meant that the gasket for cylinder number one had to be installed upside-down in comparison to the other three gaskets. A few people have reported smoking caused by oil leaks at the dip stick tube port. For this reason, I picked out the old o-ring in the port and installed a new o-ring. It is much easier to install the dipstick tube if you put the new o-ring on the tube, rather than in its port. Trust me. I installed the tube first, and then bolted it to the manifold once the manifold was re-installed. If you have a hard time getting to the tube’s bolt, you could, I understand, bolt the tube to the manifold and the jockey it into position at the same time you install the manifold. When re-installing the manifold, make sure all the support brackets are aligned before bolting the allen bolts down. If necessary, you can use an awl to pry the bracket under the 5mm allen head bolt holes into place, since the support bracket is fairly moveable. The intake runner bolts themselves should be torqued to 14 foot pounds each, using new dry gaskets.

9.  Remove engine splash-guard. Hopefully, you have already jacked the car up as described in the introduction. If not, you’ll need to do so now. Once it is up, you need to remove both the big plastic splash guard, and the smaller aluminum splash-guard toward the rear of the motor. A 10mm open end wrench and a 10mm socket with extension should see you through all of this.

10.  Drain and catch coolant. Pull off alternator ventilation hose. Remove Coolant pump with bracket from body.

Pull of alternator ventilation hose. The alternator ventilation hose just pulls off—no clamps, no tools needed. Note that this is the big flexible pipe/hose that runs from the rear of the alternator to a duct at the front of the engine compartment, not the plastic housing on the back of the alternator.

Drain coolant. I find the easiest way to drain the radiator is by simply pulling the lower radiator hose (using a straight slot screwdriver on the clamp). If you jacked the car high enough, you should be able to get a 5 gallon bucket under the hose to catch the coolant. Be sure to retighten the hose before you forget.

Remove coolant pump with bracket from body. Removing the coolant pump is fairly easy. It is held in place by two 10mm fasteners. The first is a 10mm nut that holds the pump bracket onto the fender near the strut tower bolts. This bolts holds down a strap for a/c lines (if so equipped), and also cinches down the blade style bracket for the turbo water pump. Just loosen this nut, no need to remove it, the bracket will just slide out when the time comes. Next, you need to remove the 10mm bolt that feeds through the master cylinder side of the master cylinder heat shield. This bolt threads into an 11mm nut attached to the turbo water pump bracket. (Tip: Do no try to remove the 11mm nut—it is fixed.) I used an open end wrench on the 10mm bolt and turned it out about a quarter turn at a time. Once the hardware is loose/off, you need to disconnect the electrical connector going to the turbo water pump. No tools, just pull it apart. Finally, you need to pull the water hoses that are attached to the turbo water pump. There are two. The front hose is a long hose that t’s at its other end, going to the reservoir and to a water pipe. I actually disconnected the other ends of this hose and pulled it with the water pump. There is another short hose going to the rear of the water pump, which also needs to be removed. All the hoses come off with straight slot screwdrivers on their hose clamps. Once the two fasteners are removed, the two hoses are removed, and the electrical connector unplugged, the turbo water pump should come right out.

Re-Assembly Tip: The short hose at the rear of the waterpump connects directly to a fitting on the turbo. There are two versions. An two-piece angled fitting with a straight hose, or a straight pipe with an angled hose. The angled fitting and straight hose is the cheaper solution, since the hose can be any quality radiator hose of suitable diameter. The straight fitting with angled hose is the better approach because the hose comes with its own metallic-fabric heat shield. This was no doubt added to combat the heat pouring off the turbo so close to a rubber hose. The only problem is that the hose and shield cost abut $80 from Porsche.

11.  Loosen and remove oil dipstick with guide tube and main brake cylinder heat dissipator. For all the Internet-hype I read about removing this heat shield, I was surprised that it came out as easy as it did. Once the turbo coolant pump is removed, the heat shield is held in place by four fasteners—two 10mm nuts, and two 12mm bolts. Once these fasteners are removed, the shield can be pulled from the engine bay by carefully jockeying it up and out. If not already removed, the dipstick tube just pulls out. Pull it out and set it aside.

12.  Unscrew flange between turbocharger and exhaust assembly with the M 8 bolt on engine block. On my car, the down pipe to block bolt was missing, but there appears to be adequate clearance to get at it from the top side with an 6 mm Allen head socket. I did not reinstall this bolt on reassembly, based on collective net-wisdom, but check with the supplier of your turbo to be sure. I followed collective wisdom and disconnected the three-stud flange between the down-pipe and the test pipe (i.e. catalytic converter). These nuts are reached from under the car with a long extension with a 15mm socket. The idea is to separate the down pipe from the converter so that the turbo can be pulled from the car with the down pipe still attached. You should start with a ½" drive 18" or 24" breaker bar to get them loose, and then use whatever is convenient to run the nuts off the down pipe studs. (Re-Assembly Tip: The Bursch test pipe sold by Huntley Racing uses a custom pressed-metallic flat gasket, rather than the factory crush ring. If you tear this gasket upon disassembly, you will need to get a new one to avoid an exhaust leak. Next time I do this job, I plan to order a new gasket before starting the job.)

13.  Unscrew exhaust flange on turbine housing, coolant lines, and oil pressure line on turbocharger.

Oil Line. Removing the oil line was a surprising challenge. Start by unbolting the two 15mm bolts on the very top of the turbo. To remove the line you have to disconnect its other end, which is a 19 mm banjo bolt fitting attached to the upper balance shaft housing. To get to the banjo bolt, you need to remove (or loosen) the heat shield right above and to the left of the turbo.  The banjo bolt is under that heat shield. Start by removing the four 10mm bolts holding the heat shield to the intake manifold supports. The shield will still not come out because the shield has to "feet" that slide under a pile of junk, and because two bulky wire harnesses are tie-wrapped to the "feet" of the shield. The picture below shows the heat shield and the two orange straps holding the wiring harness to the shields "feet." I never did take the shield all the way out of my car. Instead, I cut the tie-wraps to free up the shield. Then I removed the two 10mm bolts holding the idle stabilizer in place so that I go shove some of the junk (including a few bulky hoses) to the left. This gave me enough room to get a 19mm wrench on the bolt and the clearance needed to remove the bolt completely. Be careful to save or replace the washers used on the banjo bolt. (Re-Assembly Tip: Be sure to replace the rubber o-ring between the turbo and the oil line’s mounting flange, and the two washers on either side of the banjo bolt. This is a good time to inspect the rubber hoses under the intake, particularly those running to and from the idle stabilizer. I found several hard and brittle lines with very loose connections—so loose that I am sure I was loosing vacuum from them. There will never be a better time to replace these hoses. Also, if your idle stabilizer is acting up, this is also a god time to replace it and/or its rubber mounting bolts.)

Exhaust Flanges. You need to remove the four bolts holding the cross-over pipe to the turbo. These were also 15mm bolts on my car, but some people have reported other sizes. Three of these bolts have 15mm nuts on the back-side which need to be counter-held while removing. I was able to get all three of these bolts/nuts off from the top side of the engine bay. The last bolt screws in the opposite direction of the others, into a nut welded to the cross-over flange. I had to get at this bolt from under the car. Specifically, I needed remove a small louvered heat shield found a few inched below the O2 sensor (it comes off easily with two 10mm bolts). With that shield gone, I used a racket with a hinged head to get at that last bolt, and only had enough range to turn it about a ¼ turn at a time. (Next time, I will remove that bolt first, to avoid side loading the bolt on extraction, which would have avoided my need to turn it with a wrench to the very last thread.)

14.  Loosen and pull off intake air cowl between air flow sensor and turbocharger (compressor housing) as well as pressure hose to charging air cooler. At this point it is easiest just to pull the entire MAF/air filer assembly off the turbo as a unit. To do this, first loosen the boot clamp on the turbo. Then remove the three (or four) hose connections going to the MAF manifold. There are probably two bigger hoses and one little hose going to your manifold. If you are still using the factory cycling valve for boost control, there will be a forth small hose. One of the big hoses actually connects directly to the bypass valve. Assuming you have already removed the right-side intercooler pipe as described above, the bypass valve can be left on the MAF manifold upon removal. The other big hose connects to an aluminum pipe running from under the intake manifold via a six inch piece of rubber hose. Remove this hose. The two smaller hoses also need to be disconnected. One goes to the cycling valve (unless previously disconnected and capped) and the other goes to a valve just under the brake booster. Remove these hoses as well. Also remove the hose clamped to the spiral outlet of the cold side of the turbo. (Re-Assembly Tip: I found that the smaller black hose that runs to the valve near the brake booster interfered with a water hose upon re-assembly, due to the bigger turbo and the bigger MAF manifold. To correct this, I replaced the factory original hose with a longer hose that allowed me to re-route the hose to the other smaller fitting, which I do not use since I have an electronic boost controller. I then capped the original unused hose fitting on the MAF manifold.)

15.  Remove shield for universal joint on engine support. Loosen turbocharger attachment on motor support from below.

Removing Heat Shield. To remove the steering knuckle shield, you must remove the two long 10mm bolts holding it in place from the top side of the engine bay. You need to remove this shield in order to gain access to one of the 6mm allen head bolts that the turbo is mounted on. I found a deep offset box wrench to be necessary for getting off the rearward bolt, but I think mine was unusually tight. Once the bolts are out, the shield can by jiggled free. If it will not come out, you can turn the steering wheel a bit to change the positioning.

Turbo Bolts. Once the shield is remove, you have a fairly clear shot at the two 6mm allen head bolts that hold the turbo in place. These bolts run through the driver’s side motor mount and screw into the turbo mounting point from below. One is very long (125mm) and the other is much shorter. You can see the end of each bolt on either side on the turbo mounting/oil seal flange. Before trying to remove the bolts, you should spray some liquid wrench or rust eater on the top of the mounting bolts, which can be done from the top side of the engine bay, and let it sit for a while. I soaked my for several days. You should also "wake up" the bolts by striking their heads with a metal hammer via a long punch or a cheap long socket extension. To remove the bolts you will need a 6mm Allen head socket on a long extension. Some people make their own tool for removing the Allen bolts by buying a 6mm ball head Allen key, then cutting off the bent part so that they are left with a 3 inch ball headed hex key. They then put the cut off end into a 6mm socket and use the socket/key combo on a long extension to attached the turbo mounting bolts. The preferred method is to use a ball headed 6mm hex socket and "wobble" extension from Snap-On (available by calling 1-800-TOOLS4U). If your car is high enough you could also try using a strike-impact wrench (the kind you strike with a hammer—sold at Sears and all over). The ball head and wobble extension are helpful because you cannot get a 100% straight shot at the bolts. You can get almost straight by feeding the extension up between the steering rack and the rubber boot of the steering damper.

Stripped Bolts. The Allen head bolts are fairly easy to strip and round out. If you should so this, as I did, I had great luck pounding a #45 Torx bit into the bolt. The Torx bit dug into the bolt firmly and I was able to remove it. You may need a #40 or #50 Torx bit, depending on how stripped your bolt is. Some people have reported luck pounding in a 7mm or 8mm Allen socket instead (or perhaps a triple square socket), but the Torx bit seems to offer the most grip. If this does not work, you can buy a very long 5/16" drill bit and just drill the head off. Then, you can theoretically pull the turbo with the bolt attached by pulling the turbo and bolt straight up and out of the hole. More on that below. If you strip the long bolt you will need to figure out a way to replace it. It will not come all the way out of the hole, because it is too long to clear the steering rack. The traditional fix is to loosen the motor mount and raise the motor, or loosen the steering rack, to get clearance for the turbo mounting bolt to come out and be replaced. I choose to loosen the four bolts holding the steering rack to the cross member. These are the nuts that hold the rubber bushings for the rack. By loosening these four nuts, I let the steering rack sag just enough to get the old turbo mounting bolt out and the new bolt in. Then I simply bolted the rack back in place. Other people have reported success removing the driver’s side lower motor mount bolts and nuts, and jacking the motor via the big flat finned section of the oil pan, using a floor jack and a block of wood. Many people reported success with that method, but it seemed prudent to avoid jacking the motor by the oil pan if at all possible. (If you have an engine hoist, you could loosen the motor mount and raise the engine without risk, but the steering rack route is fairly simple, so why bother.)

I came across one other interesting suggestion. Specifically, start by cutting the stripped bolt to remove it. (A small cordless Dremmel and a carbon fiber cutting disk will do.) Then, use n M8 x 1.25 x 135mm stud with a nut on the bottom in place of the long bolt. I discovered that the 930 intake stud is exactly this size and is available from any Porsche dealer. If you don’t want to spring for the stud, M8 metric threaded rod will work, albeit not as strong. If you use a rod, you may need to put a nut on both ends depending on the turbo you are using. The beauty of the stud is that you can drop it in from the top after cutting out the old bolt. It can be screwed into the turbo before you drop it down, or you can drop it in the hole and then screw it into the turbo from the bottom before putting a nut and lock washer on it. I opted not to use the stud approach because it can make removing the turbo a challenge. The problem is that the down pipe to turbo bolts are hard to remove with the turbo installed, yet it is very difficult to pull the turbo off the motor mount with both the stud and the down pipe installed. Kind of a Catch 22. This is the same problem you will have if you drill the head off the bolt. I understand it can be done if you pull up the turbo part way up and then use pliers and plenty of swearing to remove the stud/drilled bolt.

REPLACEMENT

Re-aassembly is essentially the reverse of the above, with a few additional pieces of information:

Parts Swapping. If you followed these instructions to remove the turbo, you will have a turbo on your bench that has a number of things hanging from it, including the down pipe, a water pipe with a water temperature switch installed, and a screw-in water pipe fitting. These things need to be swapped over to your new turbo, or replaced with new parts. As noted above, I opted to replace the 90 degree pipe fitting with a straight fitting and a 90 degree hose with an $80 high-tech space-shuttle cooling jacket. The other pipe (connected via a banjo bolt) has a tab on it that is bolted to the front of the K26 turbo. My Huntley turbo had no provision to bolt down this tab, so it can either be cut off or just permitted to exist unattached. The original temperature sensor is too tall with the new turbo, so Huntley sells a smaller unit with a lower temperature setting. It is theoretically ready to plug into the factory harness connection, but the connection was loose in my case, requiring me to solder a new connector to the factory wiring harness and the temperature connector.

Turbo Studs. You will also need to install four new studs in the hot side of the new turbo, for attaching the down pipe. (If desperate, you can pull the studs from the old turbo and install them in the new turbo, but it hardly seems worth the effort since most corner hardware stores carry the correct stud.) I used plenty of red lock-tite on the stud’s threads. To aid in re-assembly, I cut off about 15 mm from the lower stud closest to the engine. If this stud is left at full length, it makes assemble a bit more of a challenge. I also bought all new self-locking nuts for the down pipe to test pipe connection, and the turbo to cross-over connection. These nuts are not cheap, but they look good new and offer some piece of mind.

Crush Rings and O-rings. Be sure to use new factory crush rings between the turbo to down pipe and the turbo to cross-over flanges.

Anti-seize Compound. Be sure to use anti-seize on all exhaust hardware.

Aligning and Indexing Turbo. The most unexpected challenge of this job was getting the turbo to align onto its mounting flange of the motor mount. The mounting holes on my turbo did not want to line up with the holes on the motor mount flange. The Huntley turbo has 13 mm index bolts on both its hot and cold sides. One of the bolts on the cold side is ground down about half way to permit the turbo to fit without interfering with the motor mount. To get the turbo on the flange, you need to loosen both the hot and cold index bolts, and then install the turbo on the flange in such a way that the ground down bolt sits in the recessed corner of the motor mount. There is very little room for error. If you get under the car and look at the turbo from below, you can see how the bolt tries to interfere with the turbo.  If you are having a very difficult time, as I did, you can pull the alternator off the car to gain additional access and a better view of the interference. The other problem you might have is that the cross-over flange may interfere with the turbo a bit. Gentle persuasion with a pry bar solved this problem for me. Once the turbo is aligned on the flange (sufficiently to install the mounting bolts), you should twist the hot side until it best aligns with the cross-over flange. Once this is done, tighten at least one index bolt on both the hot and cold side and remove the turbo again. Once out, tighten all the index bolts.  You need to shoe-horn the turbo into this mess.

Hardware. I ended up pulling the studs on the lower end of the down-pipe to aid in re-assembly. I replaced the studs with bolts between the test pipe and the down pipe. The better solution is probably to loosen the test pipe if you are having alignment problems.

Oil Change. I changed the oil after all this work, since the oil lines to the turbo were open for some time with debris in the area.

Installing Turbo Boot. Another unexpected challenge was getting the rubber boot and MAF manifold onto the turbo. There are two complications. First, the boot is slightly smaller than the turbo, so it needs to be stretched to be installed. Second, the alternator wiring harness sits on top of the alternator shroud, right in the path of the turbo intake. Several people have reported modifying their alternator shroud to permit the harness to have a lower profile (to stay out of the way of the turbo boot). Absent that, you should put the boot on the MAF manifold and then push the boot (with manifold) onto the turbo intake. If you have medium to small hands, you can reach into the manifold and help guide/stretch the boot around the turbo. I wet the inside of the boot with a very small amount of dish soap and water, and that made all the difference in the world. I was able to get the boot about ¾ of the way on the turbo at the bottom, and all the way on at the top. I clamped it in place like that and have had no problems. The boot and manifold sit on top of the alternator harness and distort the boot to some extent. This is expected.

USEFUL PART NUMBERS

O-Ring on top of turbo for oil line: 999 707 043 00

O-Ring below turbo for motor mount flange: 900 174 058 40

O-Ring for dipstick tube: 900174 044 40

O-Ring for fuel injectors: 944 110 901 00

Sealing Washers for turbo oil line banjo bolt (2): N 013 814 8

Crush ring between turbo and down-pipe: 944 111 205 03

Crush ring between down-pipe and cat converter: 944 111 205 03*

Crush ring between turbo and cross-over flange: 944 111 205 04

Intake manifold gaskets (4): 944 110 163 05

Expensive  hose/pipe combo: 999 230 365 02 (pipe)

                                              951 106 048 00 (hose)

Cheap turbo water hose/pipe combo: 951 106 055 00 (pipe)

                                                        951 106 248 00 (hose)

 

* Huntley-supplied test pipe uses non-Porsche proprietary flat gasket.