From: mark kibort [mkibort@compuserve.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 2:54 AM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Manual cooling switch and manual idle fuel cut off switch
(Holbert Car)

Don, and others that are racing the 928.   The way to get the cooling fans
to be manually operated is by tapping into the brown wire off the fan
computer box  (passenger side) and make a switch out of this. If you
notice, when the engine is running, if you remove one of the 12pin
connector plugs, the fans will go full speed.   the brown wire is the wire
that is responsible for the fans to run full speed.  This only works if
your fan servo conntrollers are funtional.   

I also made a switch to cut the white wire going to the main LH computer
box.  This allows for the idle fuel cut off to NOT happen.  Meaning, Ive
found that the S4 and my old Part euro 5 liter, had too much rear wheel
braking due to compression from the engine under decel (off throttle)  this
made the car loose in some corners on some tracks.   This was quickly cured
by the removal of the off idle switch on the early 84 throttle body, and
now the white wire  (coming from the idle switch on the S4)    I use the
switch, as during street driving its a little nicer to have the idle cut
off instead of the popping of fuel igniting that is still in the intake . 
During racing , this idle fuel is nice to have for reduced rear wheel
braking and easier shifting.  (RPMs dont fall as quickly)

Seems to work, you may want to give it a try.


Mark Kibort
86-7 Holbert 928S4   Ready to race!!!!!





From: Lawrence R. Ware [mailto:larry@waywardhome.com]
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 7:05 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Devek roll bar install report


Those of you considering the Devek roll bar for your 928 may
find this interesting, otherwise feel free to just hit delete... :-)

Today I installed one of the $495 Devek roll bars in my '82 928.
Took me about 3 hours start to finish including cleanup.

Step one was unpacking the thing. It arrives from Devek via truck
well wrapped in heavy plastic and filament tape. Mine arrived without
a scratch on it. Bonus points for the choice of shipping firm. :-)

Once unpacked and spread out, the first problem appeared. This is more
of a minor bitch than a real problem: The roll bar came complete with
hardware. Grade 5 USS hardware. :-( Since everything else on my 928 is
metric, I went out and purchased grade 10.8 M10 metric hardware to use
instead. (Metric grade 10.8 is equivalent to SAE grade 8.)
As all the supplied hardware was 3/8" I chose to use M10 pieces to 
replace it.

I also had to locate and purchase a long M10 drill bit as the pre drilled
holes are just a touch too small for M10 hardware.

The plates which mount under the floor pan and line up with the bottom
of the main bar are well made. Heavy steel, drilled in the right places,
with the corners rounded and the rough edges removed. Only problem was
they arrive unpainted. Removing the oil and very light surface rust
was easy. I them painted them with Wurth acid-etch primer and set them
aside. As the rest of the work was being done, they got several coats
on each side.

Step 3 consists of finding a helper so you can ease the main piece
into place behind the front seats. I went ahead and removed the upper
part of the rear seats as you can not use them with the roll bar anyway.
With a helper and the front seats all the way forward you can ease the
main assembly in via the rear hatch and wiggle it into place.

Step 4 was unbolting the covers from the rear shock mounts in order
to trial fit the brace tubes that mount over the shocks. The three
holes in mine seemed to be drilled for 3/8", not the M10 studs that
the shocks are mounted with. Re-drilling the holes with my M10 bit
opened them just slightly and allowed them to drop in place.
overall once the holes were sized correctly, the fit was pretty good.
The mounting plates are thicker than the covers being replaced, and
I had the leave the original washers off in order to still have enough
threads for the ny-lock nuts I used. I forget if ny-locks are
original, as I replaced the shocks a while back. Once tightened down
the threads extend past the nylon about three turns, just enough.

Step 5 was sliding the provided tubes down over the mounted braces
so they can be slid back up again when you mate the main piece to
the braces.

Step 6 again requires a helper, you move the main piece into place
so that the rearward facing arms on it line up with the brace tubes,
then slide the larger tubes up and onto the arms. Almost forget,
I had already drilled out the holes through both pieces for the
slightly larger M10 hardware. This is a little finicky as they are
a tight fit. Once lined up properly, the bolts hold it very tightly
in place.

Step 7 Is drilling the three holes on each side for the bottom of
the main piece to attach to the floor pan. I choose to drill right 
through the carpet instead of cutting it up. My carpet is looking
pretty worn in places anyway, so I wasn't worried about it.
I drilled the first hole, then dropped a M10 bolt through it, drilled
the second and dropped another bolt into it, then drilled the third.
The bolts were to keep it from moving around once the first hole was 
in place. Repeat for the other side.
The holes in the main part of the roll bar, the floor pan,
and the mounting plates all lined up correctly first try.
Bonus points to Devek for care in drilling these properly, 
as they lined up perfectly even after being enlarged slightly for
my M10 hardware.

Step 8 was to cut out places in my old rear carpet for the roll bar
supports and put the carpet back in. I used an Exacto knife and a
new blade to make this easy.

Step 9 was to vacuum and in general clean up my mess.

Tomorrow, I'll spray undercoating on the mounting plates under the car
to help keep them from exposure to the weather. 

All in all, with the exception of the grade 5 American hardware
supplied, I'm quite pleased with the Devek product.
It seems to be well made, and the parts fit together well.
The jigs used to weld up the bar and support braces must be pretty
good as mine fit quite well with the exception of the 3/8" holes.
This is a somewhat complicated assembly with lots of bends in it,
so the welding jigs were carefully made. Points for good overall fit 
to Devek. :-) 

The paint (Gloss black) seems to be pretty good. While the paint
covers them the weld quality looks to be first rate, with nice clean
seams and very good workmanship.

Overall, Larry rates it: four and a half wrenches out of a possible
five. 



# -Larry Ware
# '82 Moosgrunmetallic (Moss Green Metallic)
# 148K and counting...
# 928OC charter member
# Florida plate: "V8 SHARK"
# larry@waywardhome.com