-----Original Message-----
From: 928intl.com [mailto:Mark@928intl.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 8:04 AM
To: 928
Subject: [928] RE: My P.O. Was an A. Hole


The in tank pump was not used until 1989 with the exception of some pre 1980
cars.




From: Joe Rausa [jgrausa@epix.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 12:34 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] in-tank fuel pump - pics

Shark fans:
	Having a noticeabvle fuel pump buuzzing, I decided to change-out my
fuel pump. On inspection I see I have both in-tank pump and exterior
pump. Pat McGinnis was kind enough to assist on the R&R. Here are some
pics with some pointers.
1)Before attempting a fuel pump R&R, leave as little fuel as possible in
the tank.
2)With the car running, pull the fuel pump fuse to relieve pressure in
the system.
3)Disconnect battery ground strap.
4)Remove fuel cap
5)There is fuel everywhere; in the filter, exterior pump, fuel line
going forward and of course the residual in the tank. The last portion
we drained was out of the fuel tank. This took awhile and there was less
than a gallon of fuel left - be paitent. (Sorry about the large size of
this pic, I had the camera set for "high quality", opps.)
	http://members.rennlist.com/jgrausa/drainingfuel2.jpg
Fuel is coming out of the tank through the in-tank pump and through a
short hose which connects the two pumps (I highly recommend you replace
this short piece of fuel hose 928 356 550.04). Also note the banjo
fitting on starboard side of the green fuel pump. There are spacers on
either side of this fitting, order new ones as well. The original
exterior pump is painted green (replacement units 928-608-104-03 are not
painted):

6)When loosening the fuel tank strap bolts, only remove the aft bolts.
Loosen the forward bolts, but leave them threaded in place. A long
extention helps with these bolts.
http://members.rennlist.com/jgrausa/removefuelstrap.jpg

7)Here is where the in-tank pump lives, forward and to port of the
exterior pump and filter. For safety, I always let the jack stands carry
the weight of the car, then place the floor jack under the rear cross
member with little pressure.
http://members.rennlist.com/jgrausa/interiorfuelpump2.jpg

7)Here is the in-tank pump (928 608 104.03) removed showing an
accumulation of debris on the suction screen. Also order a new gasket
for the interior fuel pump (928.201.187.02).
http://members.rennlist.com/jgrausa/debrisinscreen.jpg

8) I cleaned the debris which accumulated on the fuel tank cradle, lots
of dirt, stones, etc. Be careful to cap your fittings while doing this
to insure fuel is not contaminated while the dust is flying.

Good luck. Not too bad a job, but twice the time of just changing out
the exterior pump because you have to drop the cradle and drain all the
fuel from the tank. Did I say I haven't buttoned-up yet? I didn't order
the fuel line between the pumps, opps. I'll get fixed up this week.

Regards,
Joe Rausa '89S4




From: Langdon Stevenson [mailto:langdon@meetjoebloggs.com]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 6:16 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: In tank pump


Hi Jay

>Anybody have any words of wisdom for removing the intank pump without
>damaging anything? Procedure, What are the mating threads? I have never seen
>one out of the car.

Remember the "bug" from the Matrix?  That's kind of what the intank pump 
looks like.  To remove:

- You need a long socket of appropriate size (after you have drained the 
tank, remove the fuel hose and have a good look)
- Remove the wires from the back of the intank pump
- Use the socket and ratchet to _gentley_ undo the threaded part.  If you 
have to force it STOP.  You can damage the plastic thread of the tank and 
that is bad news.  The three I have done came out ok
- Once it is loose you have to _carefully_ jiggle the pump out segment by 
segment.  It is flexible and segmented.  It takes ages to get it out, with 
lots of fiddling.  DO NOT just yank it.  It will break up into bits if you 
do and you may not be able to get it out of the tank at all
- Take your time, be gentle, it should come out ok.

Langdon