>> Been warned continually to not overtighten the oil pan bolts.  
>> Couldn't
>> find a torque specifically mentioned in the fische manual, only a
>> general ref to 6 mm bolts to be torked to "4.3+1.7" ft-lbs.  or a 
>> total
>> of 5.7 ft lbs.  Well, I don't know if that is the right tork to apply.
>> I have a nice little tork wrench that goes to 100 Inch-lbs.  Twelve
>> make a ft-lb.  So I guess I will use it to tork to 55 inch-lbs and be
>> done widit, UNLESS SOMEONE TELLS ME UDDERWISE.
>> --jer
>> 83S A/T
>> PS: I am thankful I fell into owning a Porsche 928 and I am especially
>> thankful that I have the 928 Rennlist to help, and be helped by, guys
>> all over this planet Earth.  Thank you, thank you, thank you.
>
>
On Thursday, November 28, 2002, at 09:15 PM, Ray Cathode wrote:

> Jerry,
> The torque for a Grade 8.8 M6 x 1.5 should be about 6.64 ft-lb/79.66
> in-lb (9 N*m), Grade 10.9 = 9.59 ft-lb/115.06 in-lb (13 N*m), Grade 
> 12.9
> = 10.33 ft-lb/123.91 in-lb (14 N*m), all specs for iron bolts and
> lubricated threads. The most common reason folks over torque the oil 
> pan
> bolts is their tendency to back out. Rather than use a thread locker
> that might result in twisting a head off next time the gasket needs to
> be changed, I use locking bolts. In case you're not familiar with 
> these,
> they have a small nylon (or Teflon, which is best for this application
> due the heat) ball near the end of the bolt that helps prevent it from
> backing out .... They are available at some hardware store, or places
> like McMaster-Carr, Grainger, etc. Hope that's some help, and that
> you've had an enjoyable Thanksgiving.
>
> Ray
>
From: Jerry McMurry [jmcmurry3@cox.net]
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 1:36 AM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: Oil Pan Torque & HAPPY THINKSGIVING

RC,
They are probably the 8.8 kilogram per millimeter strength bolts 
(roughly equivalent to our SAE grade 5).  BUT,  in this particular 
instance, these bolts should not be tightened that tight.  I went to 60 
inch-lbs ...well, actually I was going to go to 60 inch-lbs and my 
magic wrist told me that this was too tight for this application.  
Bolts have a certain feel -- it's hard to describe -- but I just know 
that for the oil pan smashing that thick gasket, 5.7 ft-lbs is just too 
much.  So I am settling for 40 inch-lbs which equates to about 3.3 
ft-lbs.

Now let us wait to see what Wally, Jim, Marc, Mark, Mark, Walt, Dan, 
Tony, Frank, Fred, Burt, Wendle, (and if I missed anyone who should be 
on this list, please accept my apology) say I should use as the actual 
recommended oil pan tork.

I was pleased to find in my tool box a cute little 10 mm box-end kludge 
wrench I had welded up to a 3/8" square socket to make kind of a 
crow-foot with closed end wrench.  I made it years ago and have no idea 
what for. But it is sure nice for a lot of those pan bolts around the 
sides near the front.  I will have to suitably adjust the tork reading 
to account for the offset of the center of the shaft from the center of 
the bolt, but Ah kin do it!

And as far as thread locker goes, if you use grade A (red) Loctite, you 
may very will twist off a bolt that has a long run of threads into a 
casting.  It is better to use the grade C, (blue) which will retain the 
bolts, but will come loose.  There was also a purple Loctite called 
"Screw Lock" which has a lower breakaway tork, but they may not make 
that stuff any more.  (I think I will got to the Loctite website and 
see what the latest info is on their stuff)   I also have some green 
Loctite stuff called "Retaining Compound" which you put on stuff that 
you NEVER NEVER EVER want to come loose.
--jer
83S A/T




-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Carter [mailto:drcarter@columbus.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 2:27 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: Oil Pan Torque & HAPPY THINKSGIVING


Jerry,
There are 25 long bolts M 6 X28 Z1 and 5 short bolts M 6 X25 Z1. The five
short bolts are installed at depressions of the oil pan per page 17-3 of the
928 Manual.
Rick






From: barryorlando@hotmail.com [mailto:barryorlando@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 11:18 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Oil Pan Gasket Replacement


I replaced the cork oil pan gasket on my 90' S4 two months ago.   It's
still bone dry with Mobil 1.   Here's how I did it:

Instead of tightening the pan bolts using a torque wrench, I tightening
them to a prescribed number of turns, yielding an even amount of desired
gasket compression.  A 31% compression was selected based on the original
factory gasket installation, which still had an excellent seal in the
front of the engine.  This compression is also consistent with the
compressibility ratings of many cork gasket materials I found on the
internet.

I purchased an Aftermarket gasket from 928 Intl.  What they sold me was a
cork gasket with a nitrile (synthetic rubber) binder.  My install method
will work on all cork gaskets regardless of the binder and no sealant is
required on the gasket seating surfaces or bolt threads.

Prior to engine cross brace removal, the engine and body were supported by
only four jack stands.  Overhead engine support was not used.   Jack stand
height adjustment is critical.  Two stands were place under the front body
side jacking points, while the other two were place on the front flat
spots on each side of the clutch/bell housing.  All jacking was done from
the rear side jacking points.  Care must be taken when lowering the engine
on the clutch housing jack stands (to raise and support the engine), such
that the O2 sensor is not damage.    To adjust the jack stand height under
the bell housing, I measured the floor to clutch housing distance, then
adjusted the two jack stands appropriately, and I taped two 2" x 2" square
x 1/4" thick steel washers (Home Depot) on top of each jack stand.  Motor
mount bolts on engine block must be removed prior to raising the engine.

Degrease and clean all oil pan bolts.   After degreasing the engine sides
and pan gasket surfaces, clean all engine block threads with an aerosol
brake cleaner to remove any dirt or grease.  Since some of the block bolt
threads can become contaminated while cleaning the sides of the engine,
it's important to run a bolt in each one to ensure that they are clean.

Use acetone or other strong solvent to remove any engine oil stains from
the gasket seating surfaces.

With the new gasket placed on the oil pan, and using a floor jack with a
block of wood, jack the oil pan into place.   Install all bolts finger
tight and so the gasket is snugly in place.

Mark the orientation of all bolt head tops with grease pencil.

Working around the engine in the same direction, tighten each bolt
sequentially 1/4 turn, until all bolts are 1 1/4 turn, except the last 1/4
turn should be done in 1/8 turn increments.  You'll notice the tightening
will get progressively tighter, and the last 1/4 turn will be very tight. 
Again, that's 1 1/4 turns each bolt.  This is based on a new 4mm thick
gasket, and thread pitch of 0.1mm.

Hope that helps someone avoid doing it twice.

Barry
90'S4, Slate Metallic