>From: "Kevin Berez" >Reply-To: Kevin Berez >To: "928" >Subject: [928] Seat Switch Madness >Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 15:48:04 -0500 > >Fellow seat switch failure sufferers, > >It seems that once a year like clock work I have to replace a seat switch. >The first and second ones I replaced it wiring and all, the third one I >used >my soldering iron to swap just the switch. Now, the passenger side >forward/backward switch only goes backward. I'm over this. This time I'm >going to try and fix the damn thing. Anybody done this. I seem to >remember >this some where. > >Kevin > > From: Jim McCown [mccown01@hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 8:58 AM To: 928 Subject: [928] Re: Seat Switch Madness I was having trouble with switches on both seats. Same thing, would go in one direction but not the other. I popped the switches out, took them apart and cleaned the contacts and added a little WD-40 and reinstalled. Have not had any problems since. Hope this works for you. Jim McCown 1984 928S A/T From: Tony H [v1uhoh@hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 12:39 PM To: 928 Subject: [928] Re: Seat Switch Madness Hey Kevin my 87 had a similar problem. The seat would go back then not go forward. I took the swicthes apart and simply cleaned the contacts with a pen eraser. That is where SIMPLE ends! Getting them back together is a pain. When you take them apart you will see, yes, ball bearings and springs drop out! You will think, as i did, GOD WHAT HAVE I DONE! The trick i learned to reassembly was placing a very small dab of superglue (or similar) on the end of the spring so the ball bearing remains balanced on top of it as you SNAP the swicth back together. Youe will see what i mean. After numerous attempts of snapping it back together, then hearing the ballbearings rattle inside i went to the glue idea...my switches havent failed me yet! As i look back at my car ownership, that was the first repair i made on my 928! Tony -----Original Message----- From: Dan [mailto:dbrindle@kondratyev.com] Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 2:24 AM To: 928 Subject: [928] Re: Seat switch repair Fred, There are some on the list that will tell you to take the switch apart and clean it. The trick is to use super glue to hold the pieces while putting it back together. Forget about all of the trouble. Go to your local electronics supply house and buy some contact cleaner. Do not get the cheap stuff - it will not work. Buy the most expensive you can find and spray the switches. Like magic they will work again. The brand I use is DeOxIt D5 by Caig. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?DID=7&PartNumber=341-200 The DeOxIt not only cleans the contacts but it adds lubricant and coats them against oxidation. It has never failed to get a switch working again and best keep it working. Dan the Pod Guy Portia's Parts From: Michael Loveall [mailto:mcloveall@rennlist.com] Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 7:08 PM To: 928 Subject: [928] Seat switch repair on my 86 Hi all: There has been a bit of interest in how I repaired my seat switches. I originally thought that it was a bit wordy and would take up too much band width, but, after looking at what being posted lately, it doesn't seem so wordy! So, here it is, FWIW: You will need forceps style tweezers (hemostats work well), a small flathead screwdriver, some 1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper, and a standard Phillips (+) screwdriver. Raise the seat as high as it will go. Disconnect the battery or pull the appropriate fuse. Driver's side put the brake handle down. Remove the switch bezel and pull the switch assembly away from the seat. There is little slack, but there should be just enough to pull the switch assembly out and turned up. On the bottom of the assembly, each switch has two tabs that are pushed in to release the switch from the housing. Hold the switch actuator (disk with arrows) with one hand and use your thumbnail or the small flathead screwdriver to push the tabs and push the housing back into the seat when it releases from the switch. You now have the choice ofeither working on the switch attached to the seat (mildly uncomfortable) or you can record wiring positions and desolder it. I chose to work with the switch attached. There are four tabs on two sides that need to be depressed with the flathead screwdriver. This will release the actuator and the top of the switch. There are two white plastic frames that pivot with the actuator that hold four springs and steel balls. There is also a spring loaded metal guide pin in the tip of the actuator. Both times I've done this, the guide pin has stayed in place, your results may vary. Be careful not to lose these! The white plastic frames will come away with the switch top, the balls and maybe the springs may stay behind. Pick all the balls and springs out. Looking into the switch, you see four see-saw type contactors, one per side. There is lubricant in there, I chose not to touch it, you may want to replace it. Be sure to use something that is safe with plastic. Since you're in, you might as well pull all the contactors out and clean them with the 1200 or 1500 grit sand paper. Each one pulls out by bending the outboard retainer/hinge-point out about a millimeter and grasping the two prongs where the steel ball sits with the tweezers and maneuvering it out. Do one at a time, polish each contact button (don't forget the contact buttons in the switch base). Replace each contactor and bend the retainer back into position. Now, you're ready for reassembly. The white plastic frames have pivot points that engage the center of each side of the switch housing. One frame is loose and will just pull off of the actuator. The other one is captive with tabs on the stem. Carefully pull this off. You will need to use the small flathead screwdriver to help. Now that you have both frames free, pull the actuator from the top of the switch and put aside. Reassembly is a bit tricky. Load the springs back into the tubes in the frames. You may want to spread the end that goes in a bit if they won't stay in on their own. Now place the steel balls back into the pivot points on the contactors (the switch needs to be in as close to vertical as possible if your working in the car) and put the NON-captive frame in first, axis is not important, capturing the balls with the end of the springs. Holding this frame in place with your fingers on the pivot points, place the captive frame on the other axis. Now, by holding the captive frame only by the pivots, you should have all the components in place. Place the switch top (goes on one way) down on the assembly and snap it in place. If done correctly, everything stays in place, you should hear no rattling when you shake the switch. If you do, you need to reassemble it again. When properly assembled, just replace the actuator by pushing it into the center of the switch. Be sure to align the tabs with the correct frame so that it clicks in place. Reinstall in car. You're done! Wasn't that fun? Michael L. 1986.5 Preussischblau AT/LSD