From: Dave Shaeffer [blauhai@sprynet.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 8:22 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: Glasurit paint

>Greetings to the List:
>
>Is Glasurit paint a lacquer?


Hi Mike,
Glasurit (made by BASF) makes many types of paint systems. The commonly
referred to high-end Glasurit is a base coat (color) clear coat system. It
is no better or worse than any other high-end paint system from other
manufacturers such as DuPont Chroma Premier Series, Sikkens, PPG, etc, etc.
The clear being a catalyzed urethane or polyurethane enamel. Most factory
"top coat" paints are thermo-set enamels that catalyze at temps of 250 F and
above. They contain resins (such as melamine and others) for toughness.
Whereas the aftermarket stuff is cured by use of a catalyst. Most paint
"experts" feel that the high-end "aftermarket" base coat/clear coat systems
are just as tough/durable (if done properly) as a factory job, perhaps
sacrificing only a bit of chip resistance. Then there are the two-part
enamels (Imron and such). These are a bitch to shoot, and repair, and they
can be brittle and prone to cracking and chipping. Had a car painted (not by
me) with that crap... never again! Stripped it and shot it with a base
coat/clear coat. Might be good for planes and such but....... So, to answer
your question, no, it's not a lacquer. In most states (and many countries,
including Germany) lacquers (acrylic or otherwise) are no longer legal due
to regulations regarding putting VOC's into the air. Because lacquer relies
on the evaporation of solvents to cure, it out gasses those solvents into
the atmosphere. The catalyzed paints have much lower solvent content, and
therefore put less nasties into the air.

>Is stripping and repainting with base coat/clear coat a purist no-no?


Depends on weather the "orginal" paint was a base coat/clear coat. General
rule of thumb for Porsche. Solid, on-metallic paints are not clear coated
(at least in the past, this my now be different).

>Will the "OBs" (Old Buggers) view this with reproachment and general
>disapproval?


Who the hell cares? Are they paying the bill or maintaining your car. Bottom
line is this. Today's base coat/clear coat systems are superior in _every_
way to non-clear coat paints. They offer far superior UV protection and, if
chipped or bruised (in all but the most severe case where  the chip is to
the primer or bare metal) can be easily touched-up and blended.

>I am the sort that likes to keep a car in its original condition but the
>paint on my car is past that point.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Gainey
>86.5 Dunkleblau Auto
>High Speed Vacuum and Electrical Training Aid


My advice (and merely my opinion) if you're planning on keeping the car, put
the best base coat/clear coat paint on it you can afford. It will last much
longer, and look better longer. And, unless it's going to be a trailer-ed,
seldom driven concours car, weather or not it has a clear coat on it will
only make a difference to you. If your paint is the same Dunkelblau as I had
on my '86 Carrera (non-metallic), you'll be _much_ happier with a good clear
coat over it. Personally, it drove me NUTS to have dark blue stains on the
polishing cloth every time I waxed the damned "factory" paint. Reds, and
dark colors will simply fade less and last longer with a clear coat. Hope
that helps.

Best always,
Dave