From: Ray Cathode [ray_cathode@rennlist.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 12:05 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Re: Fascia paint/patch

-----Original Message-----
From: Glen Larson <bigdadglen@earthlink.net>
To: 928 <928@rennlist.org>
Date: Monday, June 23, 2003 11:50 AM
Subject: [928] Fascia paint/patch

>Folks,
>
>Need to paint a used front fascia. Maybe a few nicks/gouges I'd like to
address. How is this done? Is there >an on-line how-to?
>
>I'll likely have this done at a shop, but would like to know what should be
done.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Glen
=====================

Hi Glen,
The bumper covers can be repainted, but there are some special considerations.
The stripper (if chemical) needs to be specific to the material. That is, the
type of plastic. TPO, ABS, etc. There _should_ be a code molded in to the back
of the cover indicating the type of material. If not, then one of the "Big-3"
should be able to tell you. I'm ashamed to admit it, but I've forgotten. A
better method may be media blasting, but again, the proper media must be used
(plastic, or walnut shells would most likely be best) to ensure the plastic
isn't damaged. Next, any fill work needs to be done, again using the proper
material. An epoxy that remains somewhat flexible would be best for obvious
reasons. After the fill work is done, and the allowed to cure, "finish" sanding
(you shouldn't need to go any finer than 320 as the last step) is done to
prepare the part for primer. Again, there are primers specific to a given
plastic, but a flex agent should be used, and I'd recommend that the primer be
of the "surfacer/filler" type to eliminate any pin-holes, or other flaws.
Assuming that the fill work, sanding and priming were done properly, you can
then shoot the basecoat and clearcoat. While some paint systems (and additives
such a flex agent, fish-eye eliminator) require additive to be mixed into every
coat, other do not. I've found the best results are gained by using a complete
"system". That is, that the primers, basecoat, clearcoat, and any additives be
from the same manufacturer.

While I have no vested interest in recommending one over another, I generally
use either DuPont Chroma Series, or House Of Kolor. But any of the manufacturers
"top-shelf" products will give you good results, provided you follow the
directions, have decent equipment, and a bit of experience. Most shops/painters
have their "favorites", some will shoot whatever the customer wants.

A very good source for finding out what works, and what doesn't, is to go to a
automotive paint supply (the places that sell to the paint shops) store and talk
with the guys there. Most (but not all) of them have _lots- of experiencing
shooting paint (many have their own shops, or do it as a "sideline"), and are up
on all the latest products and techniques. I'd stay away from the typical
collision (insurance) repair shops, as they're generally more interested in high
volume than high quality. Though you will pay more, shops that specialize in
customs/hotrods/restorations will be more likely to do quality work. A  "cheap"
paint job is generally just that, and what you "save" up front in money, you'll
pay for in disappointment, and frustration. Hope this has been of some help.

If you want/need more detailed info/advice, please feel free to contact me by
email, or phone. I'll be happy to send you my number if you'd like.

Best always,
Dave