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This is the fuel pressure gauge setup needed to check the system pressure (set by the fuel distributor) and the control pressure of the Warm Up Regulator. The adapters in the center came with the guage and can be used to plumb into the the fuel lines in differing ways. There's nothing magic about this particular gauge. You can buy the fittings and build one of your own.
The device just under the gauge itself is a pressure relief. You can relieve the pressure and drain some of the fuel out of the hoses before you disconnect from the CIS after testing. The female fittings on the hose ends are 12mm x 1.5mm. |
| The sizes of the adapters are (top row left to right, followed by bottom row left to right):
12mm x 1.5mm male : 8mm x 1.0mm male All the 12mm diameter threads have a 1.5mm pitch, |
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The gauge hooked up to the fuel distributor and the Warm Up Regulator. Note that the on/off valve is on the side of the warmup regulator. This is important. If it's hooked up the other way you cannot read system pressure.
The 12mm hose end mates with the fitting on the WUR. This hookup completely replaces the FD to WUR hose. There are other options for accomplishing this same hookup like splicing in on the WUR end without disconnecting the hose on the FD. You just need to maintain the same fuel flow of the hookup shown. |
| A better view of the connection to the Fuel distributor. This end uses the long 12mm x 8mm adapter. | ![]() |
Directions for UseHook up the gauge with a cold engine and no pressure on the system (it's less messy this way). With the gauge hooked up, and beginning with a cold engine, you can do the following tests:
Switch on fuel pump with electrical connection to WUR unplugged. Read system pressure, valve closed. Open valve, read and record WUR control pressure for cold engine. With fuel pump running, plug in electrical connector on WUR. Watch for pressure to increase, valve still open. When pressure stops rising, note reading. With valve still open, you can now run the engine. If you take care that all connections are tight, and the gauge is secured to prevent it from being damaged, you can drive the car in a normal fashion leaving the gauge in place. If you're having trouble with hot starts, drive the car until it's up to normal operating temperature, then stop and open the engine lid and watch the pressure. It should drop fairly quickly below the hot control pressure, then slow at maybe 2 Bar or so, and not fall below about 1 bar in 20 minutes. You can do the leakdown test without running the engine, but pressure leakdown could be more pronounced with more engine heat. This test will include the WUR. Stopping the engine and closing the valve will eleminate the WUR from the leak test, but still include the check valve, accumulator, injectors, and fuel distributor. |
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