|
www.p-car.com
|
|
www.p-car.com
|
|
|
 |
|
|
 |
I changed the oil and filters, all pads, front rotors and bled the brakes. All at once. So I left the car jacked up for a week until I got it all done. |
|
This was my version of the
motorsound airbox. I made a template in AutoCAD so the hole spacing
would look professional. The change in sound is absolutely incredible.
There is a growl at low RPM that was NOT there before, and it screams in
the cabin at high RPM. No longer can the stereo drown out the engine
noise!!! I HIGHLY recommend doing this.
Here's a pic of the tool that I used. Here is the template that I used for the holes (AutoCAD file, 32K). |
 |
Changing the oil wasn't too bad. But getting the filters off was a BITCH!! It took me a good three hours. That's because the idiots who did the filters the last time tightened them with a wrench! Look at the damage! The large filter was also on way too tight. Luckily I was able to get my Channel Lock's on it. What a mess - I almost twisted the body of the filter right off the base before it broke loose. The rubber gasket on both filters was smashed so much, it started to split. |
 |
These may have had a few miles of useful life left on them, but I didn't want to push it. I was hoping to run my car on the track, so I wanted brand new rotors. |
 |
This is the small filter. I almost destroyed it trying to get it off. I had to drive screws through the filter wrench into the filter to keep it from slipping (make sure you use the exact filter wrench from the dealer - I used one that was close...). And the small filter is the hardest to get to! |
 |
I didn't do it this way the first time, but if all you're doing is changing the pads, you don't have to remove the caliper (unless you have the original pads with the original anti-squeal devices on them). You remove the retaining clip on the back of the rotor, and that allows the pads to come out. It may be necessary to use pliers to get them out. The tricky part is getting the pistons back onto the caliper. Watch those rubber seals! Pulling off the brake fluid reservior cap may help. |
 |
This is how I jack up the car, starting at the rear and using the transfer case housing as the first jack point. Craftsman jack and jack stands - love 'em. |
 |
New rotors! |
 |
Then I insert the jack stands at the factory jack locations, just ahead of the rear wheels. Notice the hockey pucks between the jack stand and the car. This is to distribute the weight of the car, and to keep anything from slipping. |
 |
When you have your tires off, always take the opportunity to inspect the treads. I was surprised to see the middle tread block worn so unevenly, and surprised at the odd color. I lowered the air pressure slightly, and wound up replacing these four months (and a few slippery autocrosses) later. |
 |
| 993 Cupholder - This worked out very well - it's a cupholer from Griot's Garage (no affiliation with them, just a satisfied customer). It's great for getting my coffee to work - but I don't drink while I'm in the car. My son's infant carrier is just above it, blocking access to my coffee. The holder works for fast food restaurant sized cups - even the jumbo ones. Even with spirited driving, haven't had any spills in the many months I've been using it. |
 |
 |
 |
| Who needs a Cayenne?? I made a trip to Home Depot and decided I needed some building supplies, and they fit quite nicely, thank you very much! |
